TABLE TALES. Richard Alther

This elegant first course always produces oohs and aahs. Because I’ve been enjoying cocktails with everyone, I am often asked when did I make these since I hadn’t spent much time in the kitchen. The truth, if I wished to reveal it, is that I had probably made the pies weeks ahead of time. But why spoil the myth or moment?

       Sauté the sliced onions in olive oil over medium-high heat until soft and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes, stirring regularly.

       Add the water and continue to stir until water is absorbed and onions are almost creamy. Add the cheese and walnuts and stir until cheese has melted. Take off heat and taste to see if salt is needed, remembering that most cheeses are already heavily salted. Put onion and cheese mixture in a bowl and set in refrigerator until cool and thickened (or freezer if time is short). (Note: the mixture can be kept in the refrigerator for several days at this point until ready to fill the puff pastry.)

       Defrost the puff pastry sheets, but keep them cool until ready to use.

       Place two pastry sheets on a floured cutting board and roll slightly with a pastry roller until the sheets are approximately 11 inches square. Use a 5” diameter guide (eg. plate, plastic lid) and cut each sheet into 4 rounds, removing the excess pastry.

       With a pastry brush paint the outer edge of half the pastry circles (about ½ inch wide) with the egg beaters or egg mixture. Place a mound of the onion mixture (about ¼ cup) in center of pastry circle with the egg mixture. Cover these with the other pastry circles and press firmly around the edges to seal each pie. With a wide spatula lift each pie and place on a small baking sheet (which will fit into the freezer). When you have assembled the four pies and placed them on the baking sheet, brush each pie with the egg mixture. Pierce each pie with a small slit in the middle using a sharp knife. Put pies in freezer until hard. Repeat process with the second two pastry sheets, until you have all eight pies in the freezer. After the pies are relatively frozen lift them off the baking sheet and place in freezer bags and put back into the freezer until ready to use. This process can be done days or weeks ahead of time.

      Onion Pie

      To bake: Heat oven to 450°. Place pies, still frozen, on baking sheets (which have been sprayed with non-stick oil) and bake in oven until puffed and golden brown, about 15-20 minutes. Remove from oven and cover loosely with aluminum foil until ready to serve. They can remain out of the oven at this stage for about 15 minutes and still be plenty warm at serving time.

      To serve: Dress serving plates each with 3 scallion “leaves” and place pies over the scallions so the tips of the green onion show.

       AFTER THOUGHTS

      As long as you are making these pies, make a double or triple batch. They freeze for months. Also, the onion mixture freezes well for later use. Often I will make a double batch of the onion mixture, use half for the pies, and freeze the remainder to use later for other dishes. This mixture works well in small pastry cups as appetizers. It can also be used as an accompaniment with sautéed chicken breasts or firm fish such as halibut.

      Turkey (or Pork) Tenderloins with Dijon Orange Sauce

       FOR 8

      6 turkey tenderloins – or – 4 pork tenderloins

      ½ cup salt

      ¼ cup sugar

      Dijon mustard

      coarse, freshly ground black pepper

      orange marmalade (good quality jarred)

       TIME SAVER

      The tenderloins, turkey or pork, can be completely cooked (either method) the day ahead. Cover the meat in a container and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before your guests arrive and warm in a 225° oven for 15 minutes before serving. Alternatively, after cooking and allowing to cool, slice the meat on the diagonal and wrap the sliced meat in tin foil to refrigerate. This can be done the day ahead. Before guests arrive bring to room temperature, warm while still in the foil in a 225° oven and they are ready to serve.

      You have probably noticed by now that this cookbook does not feature red meats as a primary ingredient for most of the menus. It is not my intention to discuss here the pros and cons of my reasoning, nor to make a judgment one way or the other. There are many forums where one can discuss these matters in more insightful ways.

      I can say, however, that I miss eating many red meats that were formerly part of my regular diet and cooking. One is pork. An interesting discovery has been that when I have served my guests several traditional pork recipes (like roasted pork center loin – or this recipe that I am about to share) but substituted instead turkey breasts, most had no idea they were not eating pork. The same applies to veal scallopini dishes, when substituted with thin sliced turkey breasts. The taste and texture can be almost identical, depending on flavorings added.

      For this recipe you may use either turkey breast tenderloins (whole tenderloins – not tenders) or pork tenderloins. In either case it is important to remove the stringy tendons from the loins.

       Create a “brine” bath by dissolving the salt and sugar in 2 cups warm water. When dissolved add another 2 cups cold water and soak the tenderloins for 1 to 2 hours. Remove the tenderloins from bath and pat dry with paper towels. On a rimmed baking sheet or pan arrange all loins in one layer. Brush with Dijon mustard and follow with grindings of fresh black pepper (be generous). Turn once and do same on the other side. (Because of the salt brine it is not suggested that you add more salt). The tenderloins can now remain in the refrigerator, covered with plastic wrap) for several hours or even the day before until ready to cook.

      Two methods of cooking:

       outdoor gas grill with a cover

       roasted in oven

      Grill method

       I call this the “6-6-6” method, which I learned from a friend. It works perfectly every time. Heat an outdoor, propane gas grill to high. Grill the tenderloins on the grate for 6 minutes on one side with cover open. Turn loins over and grill on other side for 6 minutes, also with cover open. Turn off the gas heat and close the cover for 6 more minutes. Remove the loins and keep warm (or tented with foil) until ready to serve. You can also let the loins cool completely and rewarm at 225° for a short while before serving.

      Oven method

       Heat oven to 400°. Roast loins for 20 minutes each side, or until golden brown. Remove and keep warm as above.

      To serve

      Slice the tenderloins on the diagonal and either serve on individual plates with the spinach squares on the side, or on a larger serving platter. Drizzle the Dijon-Orange sauce over the sliced tenderloins.

      Dijon-Orange Sauce

       Mix together equal parts Dijon mustard and