Andrew Whitmarsh

Jakarta: 25 Excursions in and around the Indonesian Capital


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of the toughest things about living in Jakarta is trying to get some outdoor exercise, mainly because finding out when and where to go can be challenging. The central sports complex is located in Senayan and various sports are mentioned in the Senayan tour (see p. 136). Other sports are covered in this section of the guidebook, and while not exhaustive, it should provide a good start for keeping fit.

      AUSSIE RULES RUGBY

      Also known as footy, football or AFL, this is a game in which two teams of 18 players each try to score points by kicking a ball between vertical posts at each end of an oval-shaped field. Players move the ball by either kicking it, running with it or hitting it with a closed fist or open hand. The ball is never thrown. A ‘mark’ is taken by catching a kicked ball on the full, entitling the mark taker to a free kick. There are no offsides, with possession turned over if an attacker is tackled or held with the ball. This is a contact sport played without padding or helmets, but there are rules to restrict dangerous physical contact.

      Cyclists wearing Bike2Work T-shirts.

      In Jakarta, the local team is the Bintangs, and although it is mainly an Aussie crowd that plays, the team welcomes people of all nationalities and abilities. The club plays against teams from around Southeast Asia, with adversaries including Singapore, Malaysia and Vietnam. The Bintangs also support a growing junior league for Indonesian teenagers.

      CHECK OUT www.bintangs.com

      NOTE The location and times of the Bintangs’ practices can vary, so it’s best to contact them via their website to get updated information. Otherwise, they can often be found at the artificial turf field (see p. 138) next to the outdoor basketball courts in the Senayan Stadium complex on Thursday nights from 6pm to 8pm.

      BICYCLING

      BIKE2WORK First started in 2004 by a few individuals from one of Jakarta’s mountain biking communities, Bike2Work has now grown to roughly 10,000 members. Some want to help create fresher air in the city by avoiding the use of motorized vehicles, others are looking for a fun ride to work while saving a bit of money, while still others are simply sick of sitting in traffic jams.

      To become a member of Bike2Work you need only join the mailing list and make the commitment to get to work under your own power from time to time. Some people ride solo, others meet in large groups to commute together. Some ride every day, others just once or twice a week. It’s a social thing as well, with Bike2Workers often dining together, getting together on weekends and building friendships. They are very supportive of newcomers and will escort them to and from work until they are comfortable on the roads and on their bikes. They will help find alternative routes, point out bicycle shops, give tips on bicycle maintenance and train you on how to read the traffic.

      You don’t have to own an expensive bicycle to join, as Bike2Work is collaborating with local bicycle manufacturer Polygon to produce affordable bicycles and helmets. Wimcycle, another local brand, makes cheaper, less durable bicycles, while Indonesia-based United offers models toward the higher end. You can pick up good secondhand bicycles at Pasar Rumput (Grass Market) (see p. 148).

      ‘Our dream is that soon every household will own at least one bicycle and that someday riding your bicycle to work in Jakarta will be seen as a normal alternative for transportation.’ Dani Dewanto of the B2W Program and Technical Team

      WHO TO CONTACT www.b2w-indonesia.or.id

      GO TO Jl. Ahmad Dahlan #20 south Jakarta

      CYCLING IN THE CITY The second and last Sunday of every month is car-free day on Jl. Sudirman and Thamrin from the Senayan roundabout to the Monas. The same goes for these two roads every Sunday morning from 5am to 8am (exact times can vary). For those who are looking to cycle among hundreds of other riders to really get a sense of community, and in fact to join the cycling community, there is no better opportunity than this one.

      Other sweet spots to go for a ride are the Monas, which offers curb hopping and mazes of paths among the trees; the Senayan Sports Complex for some short dirt trails, a few laps around the stadium and general exploration; and the Ragunan Zoo, great for early morning speed cruises on the sloping, serpentine pathways, plus long stairwells for the brave at heart.

      There is also the University of Indonesia, which offers a wide, open campus for logging a lot of tree-lined miles with loads of cute girls and guys around to provide distraction; Taman Mini, which not only provides a cultural tour of Indonesia, but has enough space for a couple of hours of exploring. Ancol also has loads of bicycle friendly paths and roads, while the neighborhoods just west of there have real bicycle lanes.

      For clean, quiet rides among Jakarta’s finest, head to the upscale communities of Menteng, Kebayoran Baru, Kemang or Pondok Indah on Sunday mornings. For those with adventure running through their blood, a ride along the canals and railroads provides a good lesson in socioeconomics; it’s slow on speed but heavy on the eyeballs. A fine stretch to start on is the Kali Malang (Malang Canal), which runs through the heart of the city. You can hop on it from Menteng where Jl. Cokroaminoto crosses over Jl. Latuharhari.

      Be aware that although bicycling is alive and well in Jakarta, the key to safe riding is to ride defensively rather than aggressively. Signal intentions to turn or stop, ride in a group if possible, wear reflective clothing, use lights at night, never ride without a helmet and never assume a vehicle will give the right of way. The rule in Jakarta is to go with the flow, fill the gap in traffic, relax, but always be aware and stay off the main roads as much as possible.

      CHECK OUT www.rodalink.com, www.unit-edbike.com and www.polygonbikes.com

      MOUNTAIN BIKING Tearing around muddy bends, disappearing over steep drop-offs, plummeting down a screaming hillside and occasionally doing a Superman over the handlebars—that’s what single-track bike courses are all about.

      The JPG (Jalur Pipa Gas) cross-country mountain bike course in south Jakarta is not only home to the Bike2Work movement, but also the go-to place to take in some solid single track and get a dose of fresh air. Whether you go for fun or to compete in one of the races (there are categories, for men, women, children, pros and members of the public), the course is easy enough that most competent riders can complete it, while those with skills will still find it challenging.

      The 7.2km track combines footpaths, single-track and dual-path dirt roads. It rolls through trees, fields and local neighborhoods, goes over rivers and streams and past a fishing pond. It combines sharp corners, fairly steep but short hills, rickety bridges, muddy sections, fast straight-aways and knobby root stretches. Oh, and don’t forget the water buffalo.

      The action starts at Mpok Café in Kampung Lengkong Timur. It’s here that you can pick up all the latest mountain biking news, form friendships, find other cyclists to ride with and fill up on fried bananas and sweet coffee before setting off on a roller coaster ride.

      HEADS UP

      The course is generally quite safe at slow speeds, and there are sections that some may need to walk. Be careful at higher speeds, though, and try not to ride faster than you are comfortable with, since some sections could send you sailing over your handlebars.

      HOW TO GET THERE Finding Mpok Café is nearly impossible without going with those in the know. Head to the McDonalds parking lot in Bintaro Jaya Sektor 9 at the intersection of Jl. Bintaro Utama 9, Jl. Jend. Sudirman and Jl. Maleo. This is just north of the Jakarta-Serpong toll road. Groups meet on Saturday or Sunday morning between 6am and 7am. Some groups will then head toward Sentul and the Puncak area, some toward central Jakarta and others to the JPG or any other number of trails in the area. A new trail recently opened and others are constantly being sought out and developed, so it’s good to go back regularly and find out updates.

      SENTUL Long known as the go-to place