Andrew Whitmarsh

Jakarta: 25 Excursions in and around the Indonesian Capital


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Who cares?

      Objection #9: My company forbids me

      You are not a rare imported species of fish or a vase. Company policies can be over-protective and paranoid; after all, they are looking out for you. Ignore your company once in a while.

      Objection #10: I’m a girl

      So what? See Objection #2. Travel with a buddy at night.

      Now that all the objections have been overcome, everyone is free to choose any form of public transportation and go! The challenge now is to try and use every form of public transportation at least once during your adventure days in Jakarta.

      Car Rentals and Taxis

      Eazyrent Car Rentals

       www.eazyrent.co.id

      Trac Astra Rent Car

       www.trac.astra.co.id

      Bluebird Taxi Group

       www.bluebirdgroup.com

      Express Taxi Group

       www.expressgroup.co.id

      Planning Your Explorations

      Regardless of whether you have been in Jakarta for one day or one year, you may have noticed that just when you think you’ve got it figured out, there is always a new twist. The intention of this section is to clue you in to some of the inner workings of the city and to give the inside scoop on things you may have yet to come across and may have not even imagined possible. It’s very important to read this section thoroughly before setting off on a walking tour, because it could save a lot of time, effort and possibly anguish.

      A NOTE ON CITY PARKS Some people will tell you that the only parks Jakarta has are car parks. Unfortunately, that is a lot closer to the truth than we would like to admit. There are quite a few green spaces in the city if you go in search of them. Just consider a few things first .

      The term ‘park’ is used loosely here. Strips, squares, triangles or any other shape of public land that has grass and is dotted with at least a few trees and shrubs is considered a park. Asking that parks have playground equipment, exercise stations and jogging paths is holding Jakarta to a standard it’s not ready for.

      Don’t be surprised if when you arrive at a park you are the only one there. It is rare to find children playing in parks, families strolling around eating ice cream and groups of teens shooting the breeze and sneaking a cigarette or a kiss. Parks, as you might think of them, are so much of an anomaly in Jakarta that the residents don’t seem to know exactly what to do with them. Most often, the only other visitors you may find here are snack vendors, a few stray cats and a couple of teenagers hanging out. On the weekends and at dusk, though, some parks can get quite busy, especially as young guys often come out to play pick-up soccer games there.

      A modern sculpture in Langsat Park.

      Often there is little to do in these parks except stroll around in circles, sit and read or ponder life, but in a city such as ours, you should count your blessings when you can walk on an unbroken sidewalk without the risk of being run over by a motorcycle or falling into an open hole in the ground. While many parks are formed merely by the junction of a number of streets, and so are not totally free from motorized vehicle noise, there are still quite a few gems that were purposely made and are relatively peaceful and quiet, depending on the time of day.

      Also, don’t forget that golf courses are basically large green spaces with lots of trees and ponds, so when desperate times call for desperate measures, we count these as parks too. Even if the thought of playing golf abhors you, it’s still a great way to get some light exercise, a suntan and escape the rat race.

      A NOTE ON TRADITIONAL MARKETS

      Nowhere in the country does even the most amateur of photographers have more opportunities to take incredible photos than in a local outdoor market (pasar). With a kaleido-scope of colors, an often tantalizing array of exotic wares on display and a host of toothless, smiling faces, there’s never a lack of subject material.

      Beyond being great places to capture memories, they are also great places to capture your next meal. With fresh fruits and vegetables going for bargain prices, it’s a wonderful way to buy healthy ingredients and save a dime. While food markets abound, many markets sell a wide variety of often unexpected other goods. Looking for a wicker lamp shade? You’ve got it. Ever wanted a pack of 1,000 incense sticks? It’s yours. Can’t live without a police costume? Go ahead and buy one! While not every market in Jakarta has been included in this book (there are more than 100), those found here should keep you busy exploring for a while.

      When shopping at a pasar, it’s a given that you should bargain and a given that you will still pay more for something than a local. That’s okay. The important thing is whether you feel you paid a good price and you got your money’s worth. Always keep it friendly and wear a smile, as shouting or getting snappy over a few thousand rupiah is never acceptable. One thing to watch for is the pause. If you ask how much something is and the seller pauses for a few seconds before producing a number, you know that it’s too high. Make sure to come with small money, because if you have just bargained for 30 minutes to get the price down to Rp10,000 from Rp12,000 and then you ask the seller to break a Rp100,000, you can be sure he will shoot you a soul-destroying stink eye.

      Selling chilis at a traditional market.

      BEWARE OF PICKPOCKETS Markets are a favorite hangout for pickpockets, so be aware of your surroundings, don’t flash your money around, hold your bags close and keep them zipped, and dress down. Taking pictures is generally acceptable (though you should always ask first), and try to bring a cloth bag for your goodies so you don’t end up with 20 disposable plastic bags at the end of the day.

      A NOTE ON MUSEUMS Generally speaking, Jakarta’s museums are underfunded—and it shows. Be sure to temper your expectations before entering and instead see them as an excellent opportunity to escape the heat and mayhem of the streets while learning a thing or two.

      The entrance fees are not listed in this book but they generally range from around Rp500 to Rp5,000. This may not help funding much for the museums, but it does ensure that even the poorest of Jakarta’s citizens have a chance to get in.

      Most displays are not translated and those that are will say something vague, like ‘old plate’, which is not very useful. Either bring an Indonesian friend to translate, join an English-language tour, bring your electronic dictionary or just enjoy a stroll about. Learning Indonesian so you can read the signs yourself may be the best option of all.

      For the most complete guide to the city’s museums, check out the Indonesian Heritage Society’s guidebook, Museum Encounters: Jakarta. Unfortunately, most museums don’t have a website and those that do are in Indonesian, so make good use of the ‘translate’ button in Google.

      The National Museum is great for learning about the country’s numerous cultures and crafts.

      Graves at Ereveld Menteng Pulo War Cemetery.

      Most museums are closed on Mondays and public holidays. They may also close for afternoon prayers.

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