the children. A happy smile or nod of acknowledgment is the proper response; a middle finger, scowl or smart-ass retort is not. Often the people calling out bule don’t realize you understand the word.
GREET GRACIOUSLY Handshaking is acceptable when being introduced to an Indonesian, though don’t be surprised if the hand is limp. Indonesians don’t go for the crushing handshake and it’s not cool for you to give a macho display. Give a light handclasp. Touching your heart immediately after the handshake is very polite. If you mix in affluent circles, get used to cheek kissing. The standard first greeting is Apa kabar? (How are you doing?), and the response is Kabar baik (I’m fine).
USE YOUR RIGHT HAND Always use your right hand when passing and receiving items from people. In this culture, the left hand spends a lot of time near the bum and is considered unclean.
GESTURE WITH GRACE Try to avoid pointing at someone or something, especially with your left hand or index finger alone extended. If you need to indicate direction or a specific person, gesture with your entire right hand. If you need to summon someone, beckon them with your palm down and wave your fingers. Pointing at or touching items with your feet is rude, and do not point your soles toward someone when sitting down.
Be aware that standing with your arms crossed or your hands on your hips suggests arrogance or anger. Patting anyone on the head, including children, is rude. Men should not touch women, or be overly familiar in social situations, other than for the initial handshake.
SHUCK YOUR SHOES Generally speaking, people should take off their shoes before entering someone’s residence. Look for a line of shoes at the door and at least motion towards removing your shoes. Your host may tell you it’s unnecessary.
FIND YOUR RELIGION Indonesians are required to have a religion. As a foreigner, you will be required to declare your religion to complete certain paperwork, opening a bank account, for example. It is considered poor form to dispute the existence of any deity. Pick a religion for formalities sake.
STATE YOUR MARITAL STATUS It is common for Indonesians to inquire into your marital status and number of children. They may show surprise or disappointment if you are above your mid-twenties and do not have children. Ask in return how many children they have, and they will be proud to list their children’s ages and class levels at school.
COMMUNICATE CLEARLY Remember that a smiling Indonesian is not necessarily a happy Indonesian. A smile can indicate embarrassment or confusion. If a smile is not the response you are looking for, consider that you may be making people uncomfortable or that you may be making a spectacle of yourself. It’s not their fault if they can’t understand English and it may, in fact, be your accent or mispronunciation when speaking Indonesian.
ASK THE RIGHT QUESTION Indonesians like to be helpful. This may mean they give an answer to a question without really knowing the answer. Rather than admit, for example, that the person does not know where the nearest post office is, your interlocutor may give you their best guess. A tip when asking for directions is to get three people to give you the same answer before considering it accurate. Avoid leading questions like, ‘Does it open at 9am?’, to which the response is likely to be agreement. Ask open questions instead: ‘What time does it open?’ Questions about distances may be answered jauh (far) or dekat (near). However, often jauh isn’t actually that far at all!
DRESS FOR SUCCESS A woman showing skin will attract comments. Keep your shoulders, cleavage, midriff and thighs covered anytime you are not in a fancy mall, restaurant or bar. Dress conservatively when walking through a kampung to avoid offending less cosmopolitan residents. Unless exercising, men’s shorts should reach the knees.
BE A POLITE PHOTOGRAPHER Indonesia and its people are incredibly photogenic. However, do ask permission, Boleh foto? (May I take a photo?), before shooting portraits. Most of the time you will not only be allowed but will be highly encouraged. Your subject may mutter that everyone takes their photo and then literally takes the photo away and never shares it. Photographers might consider printing some copies of the images and returning another day to share them.
HAVE SMALL CHANGE Always carry small denomination notes when out exploring, and do not assume that people can give change for a bill larger than Rp20,000. You may want a pocket of loose change to give to beggars and buskers.
SHOW PATIENCE Indonesians do many things which other cultures may find impolite or offensive. These include constant sniffing, unabashed belching, hawking and spitting on the street, blowing snot rockets, nose picking, squeezing pimples in public, letting doors slam in the next person’s face, gathering in places which block the path of others, walking very slowly, commenting on how old, fat, scrawny or tired one looks, smoking in public places, pushing to enter and exit elevators, queue jumping, shoving at airport luggage carousels, letting their children run amok in restaurants and littering. These things are best ignored. Try not to judge one culture against another. Ultimately, these behavioral annoyances are minor and not intended to offend.
Getting around Jakarta
A car may be the easiest form of transport to arrive at the start of your urban walks, but it may not be the quickest or most adventurous. Add to the excitement of the day and the spirit of adventure by trying one of the numerous means of public transportation in Jakarta. It may be daunting the first time, but from the end of your first successful trip, your confidence will grow.
The following is a survey of some of the various means of transportation available in the city.
A safe, air-conditioned Transjakarta bus.
TRANSJAKARTA BUSWAY These air-conditioned buses operate along fixed corridors across Jakarta, and are the city’s first attempt at a mass rapid transport system. The buses are clean, comfortable and easy to use. Buses run from 5am to 10pm, and the current fare for a single trip is Rp3,500. Although the government officially calls the system Transjakarta, the colloquial name, and the name used in this book, is Busway. Fares are fixed and paid at the start of the trip prior to passing through a ticket-operated turnstile.
KOPAJA AND METRO MINI These buses are fun, fast and cheap, but prepare for a white-knuckle ride. The conductors hang from open doors waving fistfuls of money, while drivers careen across lanes pushing through the narrowest gaps in traffic. These buses are best taken during daylight in non-commute hours. Signal you want to alight by standing up and tapping a coin against the roof. The conductor will then holler to the driver. Fares are fixed, currently at Rp2,000 and will be collected during the trip by the conductor.
Fun, fast, cheap but daredevil Kopaja.
PPD, STEADY SAFE, MAYASARI BHAKTI AND OTHER LARGE BUSES These behemoths carry the largest numbers of passengers. There are both air-conditioned buses (Rp6,500) and non-air-conditioned (Rp3,000). They are useful for long hauls and cross-city trips, and may use the toll roads which can add to the price.
A familiar powder blue Angkot minivan.
ANGKOT/MIKROLET These are small powder blue minivans with side entrances. They generally hold 10–14 people but many more will squeeze in or hang out the doors during peak times. These minivans are very useful if you can figure out whether they are heading in your direction; routes are marked in the front windscreen. Fares are fixed at Rp3,000 per trip and are paid upon leaving.
TAXI It’s easy to hail a taxi from the street or to order one by phone. There is a vast array of taxis in the city, with Silver Bird at the top end of the scale. Bluebird and Gamya are popular and reliable. Cheaper taxis display a tariff lama (old fare) sticker in their windscreens. Of the cheaper taxis, Express is safe and dependable. Other personal favorites are Taxiku and the dilapidated Kosti Jaya.
A row of popular and reliable Bluebird taxis.