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The more modern blue version of the bajaj.
OJEK Taking a motorcycle taxi is the quickest way to get anywhere in the city. There is not a spot in the city which does not have a guy on a motorcycle for hire. Ojek drivers will congregate together in packs of 2–20 waiting for passengers. They will provide helmets, but of varying quality. Unlike taxis, ojek drivers will always take the most direct route to your destination. Negotiate the fare before mounting the bike. Try haggling for a half or two-thirds of the starting price, but don’t give yourself a hernia trying to save a few thousand rupiah. If you speak Indonesian and act confidently, you may be given the real price at the start. Fares could be between Rp3,000 and Rp30,000, but it all depends on distance, weather, traffic conditions and bargaining skills.
BEMO These blue three-wheeled vehicles are confined mainly to the neighborhoods of Bendungan Hilir, Manggarai, Salemba, King ITC Kota and Klender. They are very convenient for short trips. Try taking one from Pasar Benhil in central Jakarta, also the start of the Bendungan Hilir walking tour. Upon reaching your destination, tell the driver to stop by calling out kiri (left). Fares are Rp2,500 and are paid at the end of the trip. Pass the money directly to the driver through the window.
Negotiate your fare in a three-wheeled bajaj.
BAJAJ These are wacky, noisy, smoky, bright orange three-wheelers, with the driver in the front and space for two passengers in the back. They are useful and fun for quick trips in the immediate neighborhood. Fare rates are negotiable and are paid at the end. You may want to agree a price at the outset. Prices may range from Rp10,000 to Rp25,000 depending on distance.
NEW BAJAJ The more modern bajaj is blue, has four wheels, and is cleaner and quieter than the older model. Fares are a little more expensive.
Pedal-powered becak carry two passengers.
BECAK These are pedal-powered rickshaws with space for two passengers in a bucket seat at the front and the driver mounted on a bicycle seat behind. They are rare now in Jakarta having been banned by the city administration in most areas. Becaks can, however, still be found in Bekasi and Glodok, and are common outside of the capital. Fares are negotiable and dependent on distance. Pay on arrival.
Enjoy a ride on a horse-drawn dokar.
DOKAR For a taste of the countryside, take a horse and cart and trot around the block old-school style. Dokar aren’t very useful for getting from point A to point B as they generally travel from point A to point A, but it’s all about enjoying the ride rather than getting somewhere. Dokar are becoming more difficult to find, but still operate around the Monas, Senayan, Pondok Indah, Kemang and Kebayoran Lama. Fares are negotiable according to distance and may be between Rp2,500 and Rp5,000 per person.
OJEK SEPEDA Generally found in north Jakarta near the Tanjung Priok port, Sunda Kelapa, Kota and Glodok, these are bicycles fitted with an extra passenger seat. Often toothless and with poor eyesight, the ojek sepeda drivers continue a tradition that has lamentably seen better days. They are fun for short, environmentally friendly trips, especially through tight traffic. Fare rates are negotiable and paid at the end of the trip, but don’t bargain too hard with these guys: they face enough challenges as it is.
CANAL FERRY Most populated canal banks have simple ferries or rafts to carry people and goods from one side to the other. Powered by pole or by pulling on an overhead wire fixed to both shores, these craft are one of the few non-motorized forms of transport in the city in addition to the becak, ojek sepeda, dokar and lori. Fares are fixed at around Rp1,000 to Rp2,000 per person.
A canal ferry for carrying people and goods.
Trains are convenient for some destinations.
TRAIN The train from Gambir station in central Jakarta is very convenient for getting to the University of Indonesia, Bogor, Bandung and beyond. Visit www.kereta-api.co.id to get up-to-date schedules. Local station locations and schedules can be more challenging to figure out. Economy class trains can be slow and packed, but bring you up close and personal with a cross-section of Indonesian society. Look out for locals riding on train roofs during peak hours, but don’t try this yourself.
LORI No doubt the strangest and least likely way to travel is by lori—a homemade push-cart rolling along the rail tracks at Kebon Kosong in central Jakarta. Lori can hold four passengers and are also used to transport goods. The standard price is Rp3,000 for 1.5km, but watch out for trains.
When riding on buses and economy trains you will often be approached by beggars and buskers. You might consider taking a pocket of loose coins to give away.
Tipping on public transport is not necessary, but rounding up the fare to the nearest Rp5,000 will be greatly appreciated in taxis.
Using Public Transport
REASONS WHY IT CAN’T BE DONE There are many reasonable objections to using public transportation—each of which is dutifully acknowledged and then dismissed here.
Objection #1: I’ll get lost
It is possible that you will board a bus marked Blok M in south Jakarta and somehow alight near the Monas in central Jakarta. You can see this as either a) a disaster and a waste of time, or b) an excellent opportunity to explore the Monas. Getting lost on public transportation is a great way to find adventure in a new part of town. Ask the conductor or any of your fellow passengers if you have a question about where you are or where you are going. If all else fails, get out and take a taxi.
Objection #2: I’ll get mugged/pickpocketed/harrassed/groped
Jakarta is a reasonably safe city, with the greatest risks being tummy trouble, broken infrastructure and traffic. If you feel especially vulnerable, get some tattoos and wear an eye patch. Otherwise, use common sense, protect your belongings and be aware of your surroundings. You are unlikely to experience trouble on public transport during daylight hours.
Objection #3: It will take too long
On the contrary, ojeks are the speediest form of transport in the city. Other forms of transport may not be quick, but taking public transportation might increase the uniqueness of the day, make for a better after-dinner story and add insight to your overseas experience. Try using public transportation to the destination and taking a taxi home.
Objection #4: It’s hot and uncomfortable
It’s the tropics, everyone sweats. Wear quick-dry clothing and travel during non-peak hours, with weekend mornings being by far the best. Always carry bottled water with you. Indonesian women often carry fans, so why not tuck one in your bag as well?
Objection #5: I can never figure out which is the right bus
Just ask. Indonesians are incredibly friendly and very approachable. Or pick up one of a number of fairly handy transportation guides from local Indonesian bookstores.
Objection #6: It won’t take me directly to where I’m going
Try combining various forms of transportation. For example, take an ojek to the nearest Busway stop, ride the bus to the zoo and take a taxi home.
Objection #7: It’s dirty, polluted and stinks
So is Venice! But don’t let this stop you! Take a bandana to cover your mouth and nose.
Objection #8: I’ll be overcharged
If you don’t know where you are going, an ojek might overcharge you Rp10,000