access, there will be a panel somewhere with wire fixings that can be opened and closed. Sometimes not even this is provided, but it is worth looking for it. For walkers, these new fences in the countryside prove the worth of the designated E4 Trail, beleaguered though it is in many places.
The E4 Trail
This is the European long-distance walking Route No. 4. It starts in Gibraltar and goes via Andalucia, southern France, Eastern Europe including Bulgaria, the Pindos mountains of northern Greece and the Peloponese, and then across Crete to end at the archaeological site of Kato Zakros. In Greece the E4 Trail (Epsilon Tessera) is all too often routed along roads more suitable for mountain bikers than walkers. Also, while some footpath sections are a delight, others involve crags and are quite hazardous; there is no basic standard of safety, and you must use your own judgement. All you can be really sure of is that the waymarked trail is a walking route of some sort.
E4 Trail: Nida Plain from the ridge above the taverna and car park in autumn (Walk P12)
In Crete the E4 starts in the west at Kastelli and takes in several of the less-visited archaeological sites on its journey east. Although the main trail follows the mountainous backbone of Crete, the EOS has also designated good route ‘variations’ either along the coast, or as branches that lead to the main trail.
The E4 is waymarked with aluminium yellow and black poles supplemented in places with diamond-shaped paint-enamelled aluminium signs nailed to trees, or simply with paint-marked rocks, again in yellow and black. Unfortunately, maintenance is patchy. Winter storms strip or destroy the poles, shotgun owners use them as targets, souvenir hunters remove the signs, and sheep and goats tramp over the painted rocks. Positioning trail markers needs a practised understanding of sightlines, and of other people’s thought processes, so that getting it exactly right is not easy. Even where sightlines have been carefully considered, route choices at possible path junctions may still be ‘left open’. Relying on the waymarks to show you the route can be stressful and frustrating, although in some places it is difficult to manage without them. Even so, try not to be de-skilled by the E4! With your contour map, compass and altimeter – and perhaps GPS (with the Anavasi maps) – take time to consider the lie of the land, looking for likely footpath or mule track routes, as you would have done before the E4 Trail was made. Hopefully, when it appears, a marker will come as welcome confirmation that you have got it right.
E4 Trail: damaged wire handrail on the steep slab of rock (Walk 6)
WALKING TECHNIQUE
The mountains of Crete are very rugged. Footpaths are endlessly rocky, obliging you to concentrate at almost every step. Tripping when facing downhill, and stepping on a rock that then rolls over, are the most common hazards. You will land on a thorn bush if you are lucky, otherwise it will be on rocks. Don’t let this happen: be patient. Adjust your walking style – learn to lift your feet and discipline yourself to slow down immediately when you feel yourself stumbling. It may be galling if your companions are faster than you, but accept this and stick to your own safe pace. In this way you will be a competent walker. Shepherds use katsounas (long sticks) in the mountains. Buy one or bring a trekking pole with you or – even better – a pair of poles.
If you go exploring – especially in and around the many gorges – be aware that weather erosion has reduced many old footpaths, which may be marked on maps yet unmaintained for decades, to a dangerous or even non-existent state – be careful.
Rock scrambling
Walks in this guide do not involve scrambling unless this is mentioned, but as a reminder the basic rules are:
do not explore down unless you are absolutely sure you can get back up again, and
do not explore up unless you can get down again.
Note Scrambling (unroped) is the most dangerous form of mountaineering.
What to take
Backpacking and camping
In wilderness situations the loss of any item will be inconvenient. After any stop during the day always look behind as you leave, to check that you have not forgotten anything.
Sleeping bags
Many rooming houses have easy-care nylon blankets that are hardly warm enough in early spring or when rain sets in. In case of this (and for general mountain use), bring thermal underwear. Similarly, for indoor use, a one-season bag or a warm liner can be a welcome (but not essential) luxury.
For camping in the mountains, a full-length-zipped three-season bag is a good all-rounder. However, from July to mid-September, a one-season bag may suit even at altitude, especially if it is upgraded with a Gortex ‘bivi’ bag. In the warmer months nylon materials are uncomfortable; bring a cotton or silk inner liner. This is also useful against insects, although not as good as a mosquito net (see ‘Insects and other hazards’).
Mattresses
The lightest and most comfortable of the insulation mats are Cascade Designs’ Z-Rest and Ridgerest. Inflatables are greatly at risk from thorns and thistles. Protect your expensive mattress with a piece of tough polythene DPM (damp-proof membrane) undersheet (from any builders’ suppliers). This also works as a shower and washing mat and, supported with rocks, makes a bowl for clothes washing (do not contaminate any water trough with soap).
Tents
In rocky terrain, the more self-supporting your tent, the more convenient it is likely to be.
‘Bivi’ bags
On two-day treks – with one overnight out – a non-breathable polythene survival bag will do. On longer range treks you need a breathable ‘bivi’ bag. Camping with a ‘bivi’ bag in the rain is not easy – an umbrella is useful. You will view a squalid mitato interior, overhang or cave in a new light if mist and rain sets in for three days.
Cooking stoves
You cannot take gas cylinders (or liquid fuel of any sort) on an aircraft. Small gas stoves that take the fixed, non-valved 190g gas cylinders are popular throughout Greece. Greek-manufactured cylinders are available in remote places, and Camping Gaz supplies are available in towns. Valved (removable and resealable) gas cylinders are less readily available. Those made by Camping Gaz are found in some Inka supermarkets and sometimes at Ay. Roumeli (perhaps to suit the nearby informal campsite). One 190g gas cylinder is reckoned to last for about 2hrs 30mins, but this depends on conditions – use a windshield. Three slim-profile stoves grouped together are good for melting snow in a large pan. Practise cylinder changing in advance of your trip. Carry a ‘last resort’ set of matches encased with their striker in a waterproof container. Shepherds will be amused if you forget matches or lighter – they get caught out themselves.
Cooking pans
Where water has to be boiled or filtered, or carried from source, a cooking pan of minimum one-litre capacity is an essential tool. A loop-handled billycan is best because it doubles as a bucket for the cisterns, but otherwise you could use the plastic bag method described above under ‘Drawing up water’.
Rucksacks/daysacks
In the warmer months, backpackers might avoid specialist alpinists’ sacks, because they are designed to fit close to the back. Also, if you are caught in a storm without a waterproof liner, use your ‘bivi’ bag for this job.
Water bottles
On mountain treks your main water bottle needs to be 100 percent reliable. An easy-fill, lid-attached, wide-mouth, easy-clean, transparent, non-tasting, high-impact Polycarbonate type of bottle is practical for Cretan conditions. Bladder-type bottles in new condition, with drinking tubes, are useful for immediate use, but secure the mouthpiece with adhesive tape and fix it facing upright – you can lose the lot if it siphons out, which on some routes is a risk not worth taking. If you need to carry