On a one-week trip the walk up, or down, the Samaria Gorge can be combined with various other walking routes. Your plan should ideally allow for a contingency day in case of bad weather, when the gorge might be closed. Since there are tourist facilities ‘everywhere’ along the Sfakiot coast, you could spend several days on a continuous route walking up and down the south coast escarpment, or the gorges, all of which are different. For example:
Starting at Imbros (access: Hora Sfakion bus from Chania), walk down the Imbros Gorge to Hora Sfakion and up to Anopolis (bus or walk) for overnight (Walks 24, 45).
Next day: Down the Aradena Gorge for overnight on the coast, followed by the coastal walk to Ay. Roumeli (Walks 39, 39A, 48).
Next day: Up the Samaria Gorge (and be amazed at its size after the others) to Omalos for overnight, followed by down the Ay. Irini Gorge to Souyia, for early bus out in the morning, or on to Paleochora (Walks 49, 8, 9, 9A).
This coastline, with its tourist facilities and network of old trails, offers all sorts of choices to walkers who are prepared to travel light. As a result the area has a strong following of repeat visitors who know they will get a good week’s walking here.
A very different trip, for those who want to practise their Greek and who like places far from the tourist trail, a backpack, mid-level route when the high mountains are still snow-covered could be:
From Souyia (access: bus from Chania) up the Ay. Irini Gorge to the Omalos (Walks 9, 8 in reverse), and then to Zourva (Walk 10).
Then to Drakona (road tramp) via the Theriso road (see Trek 1) and continuing to Kambi, and Melidoni (Walk 14), to Fres and Vafes (Walks 17 or 19).
Then to Askifou (Walk 21) or Krappis and Lake Kourna (Walk 34).
Meals are available at Souyia, Omalos, Zourva, Melidoni, Vafes, Krappis and Askifou; supplies at Souyia and Askifou, and simple supplies at Omalos, Melidoni and Vafes. There is accommodation at Souyia, Omalos and Askifou, but otherwise you need to be equipped to camp.
THE OMALOS PLAIN
Walkers pause above the wooded spur that forms an optional return route to the Omalos Plain (Walk 3)
The Omalos Plain (also called ‘plateau’) is the largest of several high plains in the White Mountains. On the south side, 1.5km beyond the periphery of the plain, is Xyloscala, the busy trailhead for the walk down through the Gorge of Samaria National Park. From Xyloscala other footpaths lead eastwards to the high mountains via Kallergi Refuge, or southwestwards to the summit of Gingilos, its massive grey cliff forming part of the northwest wall of the gorge.
At Omalos hamlet (often simply called ‘Omalos hotels’ by the bus crew) and Xyloscala, various establishments, run by people from Lakki village, specialise in providing quick, sustaining breakfasts for the thousands who walk the gorge each day. Trekkers leaving for the high mountains should note that the only shop, at Xyloscala, does not stock provisions other than snacks. The New Omalos Hotel (at Omalos) can normally supply meat, eggs, cheese, tomatoes, fruit and bread. Otherwise, bring lightweight food supplies up with you.
Omalos 1080m (3543ft) attracts and holds typical mountain weather: rain, mist, winds, frost and, in winter, metres of snow. For Cretans who have to work all summer, the hotels, with their home cooking and log fires, make this a popular winter weekend destination, especially when snow transforms a formerly parched summer landscape. At other times of year the cool fresh air is a welcome relief from the heat of coastal resorts and a few days’ stay is popular with walking groups. In May people comb the old meadows collecting stamnagathi, the highly regarded edible plant of the Cretan mountains. Growing flat to the ground, its spines have to be removed before it is boiled for about 20mins.
An asphalted ring road serves the plateau and main roads enter it from the north and west. Earthen tracks criss-cross the central area. Two or three long sinkholes drain off snowmelt and rainwater that emerges far below as springs, inland from Chania. Drivers use the tracks tentatively, aware that a new sinkhole might develop at any moment. Work on a large artificial reservoir on the west side of the plain is currently suspended.
WALK 1
Around the Omalos Plain
| Start/Finish | Omalos hamlet 1080m (3543ft) |
| Distance | 5–6km (3–3¾ miles), depending on route |
| Grade | A |
| Time | Allow 20mins per km; straight across the plateau is about 2.5km, and return by either rim road is about 3km |
| Access | KTEL Omalos bus or taxi from Chania |
On this route walkers can avoid the roads fairly well by using perimeter sheep paths and service tracks. On the plain, patience will be needed with fencing and gates (hence the generous time allowance). The whole area is heavily grazed, but wild flowers survive here and there on the borders of the old meadows or around the sinkholes, one or two of which retain water in the spring. The two-storey white taverna, at a place called Selinotikos Gyros, to the left of the western pass, is a popular destination. Along with refreshments, grills and salad, the taverna offers rooms for rent.
A few rare ambelitsia trees, endemic to the Omalos region, grow in the dry watercourse descending from the Strifomadi–Psilafi massif. Ambelitsia wood is used to make the traditional shepherd’s crook of Sfakia. Ruined (and new) ‘summer’ houses ring the edge of the plain, as this was (and still is) a transhumance destination for shepherds of Ay. Irini and Lakki. Much needed by the busy hotels, cheese is still made here in the spring – excellent mountain-produced graviera that does not reach Chania market.
Leave Omalos by walking west, preferably on the fenced unmade track just north of the hamlet. This joins another road at a crossroads behind the hotels. A massive deluge (2006) has caused a new sinkhole to develop on the left, before this point. To walk straight across the plain, note a dirt track near the end of this disturbed ground – it goes slightly uphill and is fenced on both sides. Walk straight along this. (The white taverna is now in view across the plain and this is roughly the direction in which to head.) A wire gate at the end gives access to an enclosure formed around a long sinkhole. Make your way around this to rejoin your line of travel. The reservoir site will be on your left. There will be more wire gates to negotiate and various sinkhole features.
Looking south to Mt Gingilos across the Omalos Plain (May)
Return via the northern rim road or make your way around the southern edge, where there are sheep paths near the road. From the south side, branch off on a dirt track that goes straight across the plateau. It is dead straight and can easily be identified as you walk north along the main road from Xyloscala. Keep on this track until you are level with Omalos hamlet where, free of fenced enclosures, you turn right to rejoin the main road.
WALK 2
The Gorge of Samaria National Park
| Start | Xyloscala 1240m (4068ft) |
| Finish | Ay. Roumeli |
| Distance | 16km (10 miles). Length of gorge: 13km (8 miles) |
| Grade | B |