is, if there is likely to be thick mist, rain or strong winds.
Losing height from the saddle at first, this route then climbs to the top of the thin ridge above the great scree slope. From there it gains more height, undulating across scree, crags, and two sections of bare rock, one a vertical (steep) section, one horizontal. Steel wire handrails fixed across the bare rock have suffered storm damage. The wire across a steep sloping rock is no longer in the best position. The highest point of the route is reached on the spine of a wide, shallow spur descending from the Strifomadi summit area. Beyond that, the path loses height to negotiate a re-entrant (several sections are eroded and loose) before climbing again to reach the rim of the west side of the gorge. In the spring a last snowdrift may block the path in this re-entrant. If so there is a steep, but safe, escape route up the shallow spur to the summit, which is almost in sight not far beyond the skyline.
Beyond the western rim of the gorge – in sight whether you have reached it by walking along the summit ridge or via the E4 ‘shortcut ’ – the route continues to the southwest down a bare hillside to trees seen at the foot of a snowmelt watercourse. Beyond, an isolated bare ridge runs east–west above the Achlada valley.
Now clear of the summit crag, turn southwards and make your way downhill fairly near the gorge rim, to avoid a watercourse gully on the right. When you arrive at the E4 pole (which marks the end of the shortcut footpath from Gingilos saddle), turn away from the gorge. The path is now much more distinct. Within a few minutes pass a small spring with, possibly, a very old small wooden trough. Birds may alert you to its location but note that it may not be running late in the year.
E4 Trail: heading for Achlada
The path continues its descent southwest above the gully that has been in view on the descent, and which develops into a ravine. As you approach the first big crag on the west side of the ravine, look carefully for the continuation of the path. It climbs above this crag to continue high above the ravine. This is the approach to the Achlada Valley and the path follows through, beside cypress trees, to bring you out at the head of the valley. Pass a ruined stone hut, and another with a broken concrete roof. Part of its former cheese store room provides a storm shelter. There is also a new hut (locked) and a cistern (poor water). In 1943 this remote valley was one of the hideouts of the Koustoyerako band of World War II Resistance fighters led by New Zealander Dudley Perkins.
Continue for 20mins down the valley, on the E4 waymarked footpath above the watercourse, to a concrete flat-topped cistern (good water) and a roofless stone hut. A fenced water trough near the cistern operates with a ball-valve device. This is a very remote place; check that it is working, as Koustoyerako villagers will need to know if it is not. Cross the riverbed to rejoin the path as it enters the trees. Old charcoal-making sites in the oak forest, and a kalderimi (paved mule track) that bypasses a drop of large boulders, can be seen on the way down.
After about 3km, at an altitude of 1000m (3280ft), the riverbed turns sharply left and south. This place is called Olisma. Here mature pines survived the 1994 Souyia Valley fire. Still very far below, the valley is glimpsed through the trees. Note Walk 7 from Ay. Theodoros comes in at this turning.
After about 12mins, with the riverbed developing into a ravine, take a kalderimi ascending out of it, left. Follow this old trail over and down to a fenced concrete cistern, a modern stone-built chapel and a dirt road. Here the mountainside is cut to bits by roadworks and Koustoyerako is in sight, still quite far below, under the brow of Ochra crag.
Village vineyards feature on a wide saddle beyond the pine forest. Descend via the road and sections of footpath, E4-waymarked, to this saddle with its large concrete water tank (locked). Continue down the road, passing a waterpoint and concrete ‘washboard’ terrace before you enter the village.
Koustoyerako has two kafeneia, but they are unlikely to be open. A Souyia taxi can be called, but expect to wait because they are usually busy. There are no rooms because Koustoyerako villagers channel their enterprise into the beach resort of Souyia. However, trekking groups sometimes camp here (enquire).
Koustoyerako to Souyia
The footpath down to Livada village (30mins) starts alongside the kafeneon (closed) near the War Memorial, on the plateia. A delightful path in the spring, this old mule track negotiates the steep vegetated hillside, losing height through shady olive groves and across flower-strewn terracing. Turn left, south, when you reach the main road to walk (for 30mins) through Livada and downhill as far as a T-junction, where a dirt road heads due south. Follow this dirt road for the remaining 1hr walk to Souyia. When you reach a T-junction, turn left, uphill, to find the E4 sparsely waymarked footpath section down to the riverbed. Alternatively, turn right and follow the road down to the riverbed.
WALK 6A
Koustoyerako to Xyloscala via Strifomadi
| Start | Koustoyerako 500m (1640ft) |
| Finish | Xyloscala 1240m (4068ft) |
| Distance | 14km (8¾ miles) |
| Grade | D |
| Time | Koustoyerako to Olisma 1000m (3280ft) 2hrs 30mins; to Achlada cistern 1300m (4265ft) 1hr 30mins; to summit 3hrs; to Xyloscala 2hrs; total: 9hrs. From Souyia to Koustoyerako on foot add 3hrs. |
| Highest point | Summit of Strifomadi 1921m (6302ft) |
| Height gain | 1421m (4662ft) |
| Height loss | 681m (2234ft) |
| Access | Taxi from Souyia |
| Access to finish | KTEL Omalos bus or taxi from Chania |
As well as that described in Walk 6, there is an alternative walking route from Souyia up to Koustoyerako. Take a minimum of two litres water per person.
On foot from Souyia
Cross the riverbed on the E4 Trail (see Trek 10A) and ascend the marked footpath to reach the first dirt road of the hillside. Here turn left, and then uphill, right, at the next junction. Walk up this road as far as a stand of beehives (a potentially non-permanent feature), just under the south-facing side of a spur descending the hillside. Now make your way straight up this spur, which is free of the crags that are a feature of the hillside further north near Livada village. By doing this, you will encounter a road at about 500m (1640ft), which contours northwards directly to Koustoyerako. This road serves a radio station that overlooks the coast. If you happened to tramp this otherwise likely-looking road south from Koustoyerako, and arrived at its end, you would then have to clamber down a very steep hillside to reach the E4 coastal path.
Reverse the route notes for Walk 6 from here. Where the route divides at Olisma: north is Walk 7 in reverse, east is for Walk 6 in reverse.
It is easy to reverse the route described in Walk 6. From the ‘beehive’ spur, continue on the dirt road to the T-junction with the main Koustoyerako road. Turn uphill for Livada, a linear village perched on a steep hillside. After passing the last outlying hamlet of Livada, which is sited on a spur below the road, keep a careful lookout for roadside cairns that mark the footpath up to Koustoyerako. There is woodland here. The path gains height steeply, passing through terraced olive groves.