it makes an interesting and unconventional way of arriving at Ay. Roumeli.
WALK 3
The Ascent of Gingilos
| Start/Finish | Xyloscala 1240m (4068ft) |
| Distance | 9km (5½ miles) |
| Grade | C |
| Time | Xyloscala to top of first spur 1400m (4593ft) 40mins; spur to Linoseli spring 1500m (4921ft) 30mins; spring to Gingilos saddle 1700m (5905ft) 40mins; saddle to summit 50mins; ascent total: 2hrs 40mins (trail is clearly defined – some walkers take less time); descent total: summit to spur 1hr 40mins; spur to Xyloscala 30mins; total: 4hrs 50mins |
| Highest point | Summit of Gingilos 1964m (6443ft) |
| Height gain/loss | 724m (2375ft) |
| Access | KTEL Omalos–Xyloscala bus or taxi from Chania |
| Note | As a variation: spur direct to Omalos hamlet 1hr 40mins |
The mountain with the huge grey crag opposite Xyloscala is called Gingilos. This is the most accessible high peak of the White Mountains and the ascent, on a well-beaten footpath, is a deservedly popular walk offering spectacular views from any level. As the return is down the same way, the walk can be curtailed at any stage. On part of the 50min final ascent section minor rock-scrambling ability is needed, but hand- and footholds are easy on the rough rock. As with all Lefka Ori peaks, high winds may affect the summit area and snowdrifts may linger on steeper slopes in the early spring. Take no risks – alter your plans if conditions dictate. Take daysack essentials. For once you will not need to carry much water as Linoseli spring, which supplies Xyloscala, is halfway up the route to the summit.
From Xyloscala viewing terrace, on the west side, Gingilos crag is in front of you. Over to the southeast, Pachnes 2453m (8047ft), the highest peak of the Lefka Ori, rises beyond the east rim of the gorge. Up to the right, to the west, a massive scree slope is bordered by Gingilos crag. Note the patch of spiny burnet at its base, green in the spring and brown in the autumn, which marks the location of Linoseli spring. Note also the saddle on the skyline above the spring. The final pull to the summit is up to the point on the skyline to the left of this.
The ascent footpath starts from the front steps of the restaurant above the viewing terrace. It climbs the flank of the spur in easy-gradient zigzags. After 45mins the spine of this low spur above the Xyloscala road is reached. On the way down, for Omalos hamlet direct, you can take goat paths down the full length of the spine of this spur and then cross the plateau on service tracks.
The footpath now crosses back towards the gorge and then turns in, heading for an area of rugged pinnacles below the big scree slope. Just before the path loses height to negotiate the pinnacles, note the goat paths (splintered paths) ascending, right, to the top of the ridge.
FOR KOUSTOYERAKO VIA STRIFOMADI SUMMIT
Leave the path here and see Walk 6.
After passing through the pinnacles and a spectacular rock arch, the footpath gains height again for Linoseli spring, where there is a concrete tank surrounded by a thicket of spiny burnet, together with two stainless steel troughs and a drinking water tap. The footpath continues from the spring, zigzagging up the firmer side of the scree, alongside crags and boulders.
The saddle, a pleasant place to be on a fine settled day, thinly divides the Samaria and Tripiti gorges. Over to the east, the red-roofed Kallergi mountain refuge has been in view for some time with Melendaou behind, its huge stratified cliff forming the northeast rim of the gorge.
Lammergeiers (bearded vultures), identifiable by their diamond-shaped tails, often soar above at midday. The largest birds in Europe, they roost on inaccessible crags of the Tripiti Gorge, which is now in view. At any time elsewhere in the mountains these huge birds may be seen gliding by on a foraging trip.
A branch of the E4 Trail is signposted at the north end of the saddle (see Walk 6). This is an unfrequented shepherds’ path that undulates across steep crags and scree, forming a Grade D shortcut route to Koustoyerako (Walk 6). Another signpost (2014) warns of the danger of descending into the Tripiti Gorge. There are cliffs and crags lower down making it impassable to the south coast.
Southwards, splintered paths continue up from the saddle. On the first section, which is steep, when bare rock takes over from heathland it is easier to climb up more solid rock a little to the right. A spindly fence surrounds a dangerous karst hole in the rocks. The route, marked with vertical standing stones designed to show above snow in the spring, levels out before climbing again and rocks are variously waymarked; in general the route bears left at this stage. The tiny white chapel of Profitis Elias Tripitis is in view far below, to the west, on a crag where the Tripiti Gorge meets the sea near Souyia (Trek 10). Once above the rocks the footpath levels out again, zigzagging up less steeply.
A large cairn marks Gingilos summit. A subsidiary rocky summit to the east lies nearer the rim of the gorge. Volakias 2116m (6942ft), the highest peak of the western massif, is next along the ridge to the south.
The climb to the ‘Gingilos saddle’ above Linoseli spring
Extension onto Volakias summit
Standing stones mark the way to Volakias. Descend steeply from Gingilos summit to the small saddle that separates the two peaks.
Beyond Volakias there are two long, crag-ridden, waterless ridgetops between the Samaria, Klados and Tripiti gorges. A path along one of them is shown on the Anavasi map. Even so, both are Grade E expeditions that cannot be done in one day from the Linoseli spring without an experienced guide who already knows the way. Rock scrambling and scree slopes are involved and there is no water. To the west, across the Tripiti Gorge, the Achlada Valley, part of Walk 6 to Koustoyerako, is in view. Looking east, note the ridge leading up to Melendaou (Walk 5 and Trek 6), and then follow the profile of the mountains south from Pachnes to identify Zaranokefala and its summit crag (Trek 7).
Return to Gingilos summit the same way.
Return to Xyloscala the same way you came up.
Direct route to Omalos
For Omalos direct (instead of Xyloscala) peel off down the spur above the road. Keep to the spine of this ridge right to its end, where you have a bird’s-eye view of the plateau. Before reaching this viewpoint, you will pass a ruined shepherds’ hut on the left. A huge and very old circular water cistern is also nearby. Note the layout of the plateau’s service tracks, because once you are on level ground you will not be able to see the track you want to use. At the viewpoint, cross over to the left for the final descent on a slope that is free of undergrowth. At the bottom, follow sheep paths that link to a dirt road, where you turn right.
WALK 4
Xyloscala to Kallergi Refuge
| Start | Xyloscala 1240m (4068ft) |
| Finish | Kallergi Refuge 1680m (5511ft) |
| Distance | 3km (1¾ miles) |
| Grade | A |
| Time | 2hrs |
| Highest point | Kallergi Refuge 1680m (5511ft) |
| Height gain | 440m (1443ft) |