verdant hidden valley lined with ferns and deciduous trees for 5mins until the path arrives at an ancient drystone wall. Continue with the wall on the left side of the path, following red/white waymarking. After about 15mins the path once again becomes granite, now waymarked red/white/yellow. This leads to a wide dirt track; turn left towards the branda of São Bento do Cando.
Arrive at the branda, head straight across the tarmac road and down a cobbled road to the back of the church. There are two cafés nearby. Turn right and right again, initially heading north-west. Continue along this narrow path to arrive at a dirt cart track; turn left (uphill). The path here is variously waymarked red/white and/or red/yellow.
After 700 metres, arrive at the outskirts of Branda de Bosgalinhas and take the rough cart track heading right (the main path ahead has both yellow/red and white/red crosses). Follow this track to a gated field, then turn right along a steep uphill path between two drystone walls.
A branda is a high grazing village occupied by local people and their animals during summer. At the beginning of the colder weather they return to their inverneira – a winter village in the sheltered valley.
Verdant pastureland at Branda de Bosgalinhas
Reach a tarmac road, turn left and fork immediately right up a very steep concrete road heading south-west. This becomes a cart track, then you fork right at the next junction, with excellent views of the valley behind. Continue up the cart track, ignoring all minor turnings. There are some paddocks to the left, and a short section of granite track underfoot. Arrive at a T-junction with another dirt track after 25mins and head right (north-west); there is red/white waymarking on the left for GR Travessia das Serras da Peneda do Soajo.
Follow the dirt track for over half an hour to arrive at a major junction with a view of two sets of wind turbines. Turn left, which is north-west (the main path, which is the better travelled, heads right and east), towards some pine trees. The route winds its way briefly through a number of small pine copses, green and soft underfoot. As it heads down into Branda da Aveleira, ignore two right-hand turns (both dead-ends). At an attractively restored house called Teso da Costa, turn right and go downhill, following the main path into the village as it becomes a lovely stone-paved road.
Soon reach a T-junction with another stone-paved road, turn left and go downhill. Turn right at the next T-junction, with houses to either side, on level ground initially before quickly going downhill. Arrive at a multi-way junction with many signs for the various holiday properties nearby, and head downhill.
After about 50 metres take the unsignposted level footpath to the right of the road, heading south-east and leading to a stream. Cross over the stepping-stones, taking either of the two paths as they both go to the same place. Then take the right fork, continuing along the same path as before, with thick bushes to either side. (Ignore the left uphill fork despite it being wider and better travelled.)
About 10mins later reach a rough cart track at its hairpin bend and go left, heading uphill to a pinewood. Stay on the cart track until you reach a T-junction with another dirt track, still within the woods, and turn left, heading north-east. At the edge of the woods, arrive at a tarmac road with three options: take the middle one, going straight ahead and passing a football field to the left.
Continue on this tarmac road for 250 metres and take the next left-hand turn. This is a very quiet road only going to Branda da Bouça dos Homens. In the village, at a junction with houses called A Casrejinha ahead and O Ninho do Caçadora on the right, turn right and then turn immediately left. This is the only road out of the village and it rapidly becomes a dirt track, curving downhill.
Continue on this main dirt track for 1km, ignoring any turnings, until it meets a tarmac road. Turn right and after 20 metres go left up a beautiful granite path heading gently uphill for 1km (signposted Meadinha). The path is marked with cairns but no other waymarking.
Continue through a stunning landscape of jumbled and fractured granite for 1.5km, and then follow the path as it descends. Reach the end of this path after 1km at a large flat area and turn left along a short cobbled section which intercepts the main road. Head right and downhill for 1km to return to the santuário at Peneda.
WALK 4
Pertinho do Ceu, Gavieira
| Start/Finish | Church at Gavieira (N41°57.462’ W08°15.098’) |
| Distance | 8.5km |
| Total ascent | 600m |
| Grade | Medium |
| Time | 3½hrs |
| Terrain | All on excellent footpaths |
| Map | Adventure Maps Peneda-Gerês; Carta Militar 1:50,000 sheet 1-2, 1:25,000 sheet 9 |
| Refreshments | Cafés in São Bento do Cando, plus a seasonal restaurant (July/August only) |
| Access | Head north on the N202 from near Soajo, then drive along M503 for 600m; turn right for Gavieira |
| Parking | On road |
Pertinho do Ceu, ‘Close to heaven’, is a fittingly stunning little walk – especially satisfying if you’ve done Walk 3, as you can see its route from this one. Officially it is done clockwise, but doing it anticlockwise, as described here, makes the descent down the calçada (stone-built pavement) easier and safer.
The route includes a short section of the GR Travessia das Serra da Peneda e do Soajo, and as the name suggests, it does get very high up. Note that the route on some maps and websites is not correct – this route matches exactly the red/yellow waymarking.
From the front of the church take the only tarmac road heading uphill and north-west, and then continue heading north out of town. Rio Pomba is down in the valley on the right and there are some remarkable cliffs beyond that, on Walk 3. Take the second right-hand turn onto a footpath, approximately 700 metres from the start. Go straight over a footpath crossroads after a further 100 metres, and then fork right to go to the river. Cross the river over stepping-stones and then follow the cart track along a pretty and shaded section, walking along the valley and heading upstream.
Ford another stream (with a gate next to it) and then ascend leftwards up the slope on an indistinct path. Pass close to the right of a ruined house where the path veers right and uphill. Along this section the waymarking becomes red/yellow/white. Meet a rough cart track after 500 metres and turn left, keeping a wall to the left-hand side. Follow this track for 500 metres to São Bento do Cando.
At the village, head straight across the tarmac road and down a cobbled road to the back of the chapel.
This tiny and ancient chapel dedicated to Saint Benedict houses two holy images of him, and was an important site of religious pilgrimage. His feast day is still celebrated, although now it is more party than pilgrimage.
Turn right and right again, initially heading north-west. Continue along a narrow path, arrive at a dirt cart track and turn left (uphill). The path here is variously waymarked red/white and/or red/yellow.
After 700 metres arrive at the outskirts of Branda de Bosgalinhas and take the rough cart track heading right (the main path ahead has both yellow/red and white/red crosses). Follow this track to a gated field, then turn right along a steep uphill path between two drystone walls.
Arrive at a tarmac road a few minutes later and turn left, then fork immediately left, downhill. Follow this as it changes to concrete road through the village and past a very old thatched house. At the bottom of the village