is always somewhere in Portugal to enjoy hiking at any time of the year. The temperature is most comfortable for walking in spring (March to May) and autumn (September and October). In general, the intense heat of the summer (July and August) could be a challenge. This is lessened by going along the coastline with the sea breeze, or up the cooler mountains in the north; the mountains in Estrela could be covered with snow from October until May. However, these are popular summer destinations with the Portuguese and could be crowded. May to August is the period with less rainfall, and in general the south is much drier with Algarve claiming 300 days of sunshine per year on average (see ‘Weather’, above).
In order to admire the almond blossoms, January and February would be the best time to visit. Wildflowers in spring are truly a delight, and the autumnal colours are equally splendid; the timing varies across the different regions (see ‘Plants and flowers’, above). Migratory birds provide an extra reason to visit from March to October.
Every village and region has its own festival and pilgrimage that can provide unique experiences – but they can also cause significant traffic problems. The national celebrations like Fátima or Carnation Day are on a grand scale and are eye-openers.
Getting there
By air
There are directs flights from all main UK airports to Faro, Lisbon or Porto, with major and budget airlines (see Appendix B for contact details); prices start from under £100 return. Porto is the most convenient airport for the northern region (Montesinho, Peneda-Gerês National Park, Alvão and Estrela). Lisbon is convenient for the central region (Sintra, Arrábida, and Aire e Candeeiros are within an hour’s drive from the city, while Tejo and Marvão are about two hours away). Faro is ideal for visiting the southern region and the Algarve.
By car
It takes about 15 hours to drive through France and Spain from Calais (via the Eurotunnel or by ferry across the English Channel) to northern Portugal. It’s a slightly shorter drive of about 12 hours if you sail to Brittany. Alternatively there are car ferries from either Plymouth or Portsmouth to Bilbao or Santander in Spain; it is then a 5-hour drive to northern Portugal. Another option would be to fly to Portugal or Spain and hire a car; they are easily available at airports (see above).
By train
It’s possible to travel from London to Lisbon via Eurostar, TGV and Sud Express, taking about 24 hours – plus another connecting train to Porto or Faro. (See Appendix B for rail operator contact details.) However, this is quite a tortuous and time-consuming way to travel and not necessarily cheaper than flying. With the emergence of budget airfares this has become the least favourable option.
Visas
EU citizens need an identity card only. Australian, New Zealand, Canadian and US citizens do not need a visa but must have a passport that is valid until at least three months after the end of their planned stay. Visitors from other countries should see the official Portugal tourism website for information (www.visitportugal.com; search ‘visa’). For a visa application they should go to the Portuguese Ministry of Foreign Affairs official website: www.secomunidades.pt/vistos
Travelling around
Without a doubt a car is the most convenient way of getting around for the purposes of this guide, and access details are given for drivers in the information box at the start of each walk. The traffic is not busy except in major cities; however, Portugal continues to have the highest death rate from road traffic accidents in Western Europe, so drive carefully. There are different sorts of tolls: check with your car hire company or at www.estradas.pt
The Portuguese road nomenclature is varied. A national road on signs and in text is denoted by the letter ‘N’, but on some maps may be ‘En’ or just the number. Likewise, the smaller municipal roads may be denoted by ‘M’, ‘Em’ or just the number.
Trains run between major cities (Comboios de Portugal, www.cp.pt). Long-distance buses link most cities, large towns and many small towns (Rede Expressos – a national consortium of companies – www.rede-expressos.pt). There are bus services to locations near some of the walks in this book but they are infrequent with complicated schedules (details from tourist information offices), and an overnight stay is usually required.
A moinho (windmill) on Walk 34
Where to stay
Holiday accommodation is widely available in towns and even in remote villages. It ranges from hotels, guest houses, self-catering options, private rooms and youth hostels to camping grounds. Be aware that wild camping is not permitted. For a special treat, book a room in a pousada, one of the luxurious converted castles, palaces, convents or other historic buildings.
Prices in Portugal are very reasonable; an equivalent three-star hotel room or self-catering property is approximately €50 per night in Lisbon – cheaper in rural places – and prices start from about €75 even at a pousada.
The following websites may be useful in searching for and booking accommodation: www.airbnb.co.uk, www.tripadvisor.co.uk, and www.booking.com. The websites for the national park, nature parks and the local municipalities are also useful resources, especially for rural places (see Appendix B). For the latter, booking might have to be done via the local tourist office by phone as some proprietors are not online.
For most of the routes in this book, accommodation is available in towns or remote villages near the start of the walk, as detailed in the ‘Bases’ section for each area. Public transport from a nearby town may be possible; more often access by car is recommended.
The standard of lodging does vary, and facilities tend to be geared more for hot weather: heating systems are often lacking, other than a wood-burning stove, especially in remote villages.
| Practicalities | |
| Time | Portugal is on GMT (or BST during the summer). No time difference compared to the UK. |
| Money | Portugal uses the euro (€) |
| Electricity | 220–240 volts AC |
Food and drink
Portuguese food is simple, unfussy, but nonetheless delicious. Eating out, fresh fish and meat (grilled or fried) are staple. Meals are very good value for money and traditionally substantial, suitable for people who’ve worked a hard day in the fields. You won’t get many (or often any) vegetables, other than chips, as families eat greens at home whereas going out is a time to enjoy meat. Vegetarians are not particularly well catered for in Portugal. Note that una dosa (one portion) is for two or more people to share, whereas a meia dosa (half-portion) is for one person.
Unique Portuguese dishes include feijoada (bean stew with meats), cozido á Portuguesa (Portuguese stew, which varies across the country), alheira (a bready sausage), salpicão (a thick smoked pork dry sausage), morcela (black pudding), linguiça (spicy garlic sausage), presunto (ham, similar to Parma ham), cataplana (seafood stew – the name refers to the copper dish it’s cooked in), caldo (a simple vegetable broth), frango no churrasco (barbequed chicken), porco Alentejano (pork with clams), and migas (crumbled bread fried with various additions).