São João da Fraga
Walk 7 Minas dos Carris, Portela de Homem
Walk 8 Gerês circuit
Walk 9 Águia do Sarilhão and Via Nova, Campo do Gerês
Walk 10 Trilho dos Currais, Vila do Gerês
Montesinho Nature Park
Walk 11 Trilho da Calçada, Moimenta
Walk 12 Montesinho summits
Around Alvão Nature Park
Walk 13 Senhora da Graça, Mondim de Basto
Walk 14 Marão summit
Douro International Nature Park
Walk 15 Azeite, Bruçó
Walk 16 Ribeira do Mosteiro
Schist villages
Walk 17 Schist villages of Lousã
Walk 18 Caminho do Xisto das Aldeias de Góis and Lousã summit
Walk 19 Trilho do Vale do Ceira, Cabreira
Serra da Estrela Nature Park
Walk 20 Sol and Rota das Faias, Manteigas
Walk 21 Rota do Carvão, Manteigas
Walk 22 Javali and Poço do Inferno, Manteigas
Walk 23 Rota do Glaciar, Torre–Manteigas
Walk 24 Poios Brancos, Manteigas
Around Lisbon
Walk 25 Castelejo, Alvados
Walk 26 Chãos
Walk 27 Peninha, Sintra
Walk 28 Cabo Espichel, Arrábida
Tejo and São Mamede Nature Parks
Walk 29 Rota dos Abutres, Salvaterra do Extremo
Walk 30 GR29 Rota dos Veados
Walk 31 Marvão
Monsaraz and Évora
Walk 32 Évora aqueduct and Ecopista
Walk 33 Monsaraz
The Algarve, Costa Vicentina and Guadiana
Walk 34 Odeceixe beach circuit
Walk 35 Cabo de São Vicente
Walk 36 Rota das Cascatas, Monchique
Walk 37 Trilho da Fóia, Monchique
Walk 38 Pulo do Lobo, Guadiana
Walk 39 GR23
Walk 40 Serra do Caldeirão, Parizes
Appendix A Route summary table
Appendix B Useful contacts
Appendix C Language
A typical inland landscape of southern Portugal with rock roses, lavender, and a profusion of wildflowers
PREFACE
Our first experience of walking in Portugal came during a year of European travelling, when we were captivated by the unexpectedly huge mountains, devoid of crowds, and numerous excellent walking trails. Finding out where these began or went proved to be challenging, with limited resources from the majority of tourist information offices, poor outdated maps and no guidebook in English. The solution was to do extensive research and write our own guide.
We do not pretend to have walked every single footpath in Portugal but have investigated hundreds: asking locals, going online, making enquiries at the national park, nature park and tourist information offices, poring over maps, or simply spotting the signs as we went along. From these hundreds we have walked more than a hundred, from which we have selected walks that made our hearts sing, our spirits lift and made us feel glad to be alive. This is of course entirely subjective. Wherever possible we have chosen walks along the ‘old ways’ (routes used by villagers in ancient times as their sole means of passage), sections of long-distance GR trails, and incorporating some history.
This book is designed to complement the Cicerone guide Walking in the Algarve, and has a different selection of Algarvian routes.
Simon Whitmarsh and Andrew Mok
2017
View of the town from Marvão’s castle, São Mamede (Walk 31)
INTRODUCTION
The Azeite – ‘Olive oil’ – route follows cobbled paths next to olive groves (Walk 15)
Why go walking in Portugal? This delightful country enchanted two self-confessed walking addicts so much that after just a short visit we were captivated, returning again and again. There are so many reasons to fall in love with this relatively undiscovered gem of a country. The diverse terrain includes the rugged north with a multitude of mountains, many higher than Ben Nevis, and the beautiful Douro valley. Further south, the Serra da Estrela mountain range provides alpine, snow-capped peaks and plateaux. There is nearly 1000km of coastline including the dramatic arid scenery of the southern coastal areas, bordered by wave-pummelled cliffs. All this is encapsulated in a narrow strip of the Iberian Peninsula.
Another reason is the weather. With such a variety of meteorological microclimates within its borders, there is always somewhere to enjoy hiking at any time of the year in Portugal. The Arrábida Nature Park is good for walking in winter, as is the Algarve, whereas in the heights of summer when it is too hot to enjoy a good walk in many parts of Europe, you will find balmy temperatures in Serra da Estrela Nature Park.
The major draw remains the space. This is not a large country compared to its more massive Iberian neighbour, but you will be able to walk in peace and tranquillity, very likely in the delights of just your own company. Even if its popularity as a walking destination were to increase over time, this is a place that could absorb many visitors. In addition, there are the warm and friendly people. For those who don’t speak Portuguese, some effort plus sign-language will be rewarded with smiles and helpfulness.
And then there are the wildlife and flowers. The hillsides carpeted with fragrant blooms in spring, or the almond blossom of late winter lying like snow on the ground are truly a sight to behold. Should you wish to be surrounded by trees, Portugal is the world’s largest cork producer and has widespread arboriculture. The birdwatching is phenomenal with a plethora of resident raptors, and uncountable millions of migratory