forms an important part of any outdoor activity, and the opportunities to see and enjoy it in Portugal exceed those throughout most of Europe. The Iberian grey wolf roams Peneda-Gerês. You are unlikely to see one, but may see the gnawed bones of their prey or their tracks, which look like huge dog prints of about 9–15cm diameter. There has never been a recorded wolf attack on humans in Portugal. Limited to the same area are roe deer, the symbol of the park, as are Spanish ibex. Red deer are more likely to be encountered in Guadiana, although the majority of their territory is within Spain.
Wild boar can be found in many rural areas and you are bound to see evidence of their foraging; Walk 22 is even named after them. Bears were extinct but are apparently beginning to make a return into Peneda-Gerês from northern Spain. The previously extinct Iberian lynx has been successfully reintroduced into Guadiana Nature Park. Two unexpected creatures are Egyptian mongoose and the genet, both introduced by the Moors to keep vermin under control.
Portugal is an undiscovered gem for anyone with an interest in birds, many species of which can be easily seen on walks. Egyptian vultures, griffon vultures, black vultures and golden eagles (called royal eagles here) abound in Tejo and Douro. There are many migratory birds such as the strikingly coloured bee-eaters and white storks. The latter are present all over Portugal, from spring to autumn; even when they have returned to Africa, their huge nests are a constant reminder of these sociable visitors.
White stork on a convent roof; they migrate to Africa in September, returning in February (Walk 33)
Lizards are commonly encountered. There are about 20 different species, of which the most stunning is the Iberian Emerald Lizard (Schreiber’s lizard). The 11 species of snakes are all rather shy, and only two are poisonous: Lataste’s viper (with zigzag patterns on its back), found throughout Portugal, and the Portuguese viper (highly polymorphic with variable patterns or none, hence it is difficult to identify) in the far north. The endangered Mediterranean turtle may be seen by rivers and lakes in the south and the Iberian green frog is widespread throughout Portugal.
Plants and flowers
Portugal’s national tree is the cork oak (Quercus sobreiro; see ‘Agriculture’, below), often found alongside Portuguese, holm, English and Pyrenean oaks. Also widespread is the strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo), unusual for its contemporaneous flowers and fruits, which are used to make the local alcoholic drink Medronho.
In spring there is an abundance of wildflowers: poppies, lavender, saxifrage, geraniums, buttercups, orchids, iris, broom, native rock rose, lupins and many more. In Estrela, spring begins around May whereas in the nearby but lower Douro it tends to start in March – and yet the almonds blossom a month earlier. Further south in the Algarve, the warmer temperature advances the flourish of spring flowers even further, meaning spring could be experienced from February until June in various parts of Portugal. As the temperature warms up, the unmissable aroma of herbs including sage, thyme, rosemary and mint can be experienced on the walks. To cope with the very hot and dry conditions in the summer, some plants have needle-like or furry leaves to reduce evaporation; cacti and succulents have thick waxy leaves to store water, while other plants become dormant and annuals set seed by early summer. In autumn, the golden grasses complement the colour of the clear blue skies.
Miniature daffodils, Serra de Estrela; gum rockrose, which originated in Portugal; common rhododendron (endangered endemic Iberian subspecies), Monchique
The diverse growing conditions nurture a huge variety of plants. The dry and very mild winters in the Algarve, which has relatively sandy soil, attract temperate plants. On the Costa Vicentina, the very low-lying plants are able to withstand drying salt-laden Atlantic winds. Many are endemic to this region, including the local rock rose (Cistus palhinhae). In the north and more mountainous regions, plants have to be hardier to thrive in wet, cold conditions, being covered with snow for up to half the year.
Agriculture
Arboriculture for wood, paper and cork is widespread in Portugal, which is the world’s largest cork producer. The bark is stripped and dried without killing the tree, about every nine years. The tree is then labelled with a number; if marked ‘15’ this means it was harvested in 2015 and will be ready again in 2024. The industry is in decline as wine producers are switching from natural to cheaper but less aesthetically pleasing options. However, screwtops’ inability to breathe may cause sulphurisation and stop wine ageing properly, and their plastic lining degrades with time. In addition, while it is true that screwtops prevent cork taint, many would argue that the wine experience is poorer without the ‘pop’ of a cork.
A pile of harvested cork drying in the sun
The fast-growing acacia, eucalyptus and pine are all cultivated for paper pulp, but unfortunately they are more flammable. Australian acacia (Acacia dealbata) is very invasive and eucalyptus’ deep taproots dry out the ground more than native trees. The result is an increased risk of forest fire, which is a major problem in Portugal. Also grown extensively are chestnuts (Castanea), mainly for animal feed, and stone pine (Pinus pinea) as an anti-erosion measure funded by the EU.
Smallholdings are common in rural areas, nowadays tended by aging populations. Unusual crops are grown, such as blue and yellow lupins for their edible seeds known as tremoços. A wide variety of grapes are grown throughout Portugal as delicious fruits or for wine. Douro, with its neat terraced vineyards along the river, is UNESCO-listed as the world’s oldest denominated wine area. A distinctive Iberian, predominantly Portuguese structure is an espigueiro or canastro (granary), often still in use for the storing of maize, specially built to protect the contents from rodents.
Much land is used as pasture, with skinny sheep and goats widely seen across the country (the sheep cheeses are delicious), and some areas have their own breeds of cow (Peneda and Alvão). In Alentejo the pastures are dotted with holm oak, providing firewood for people and shade for livestock. Far fewer chemicals are used here, as evidenced by the prodigious amounts of wildflowers, resulting in excellent honey.
Weather
Portugal is a small country with a large range of weather conditions. The mainland can be climatically split into north and south. The mountains of the north create a barrier to Atlantic winds, trapping cool air and rain, the high rainfall encouraging greenery in abundance. Heading east and inland, summers become hotter and winters longer.
Inland and at altitude, snow is a regular occurrence, often settling for days. January sees highs of 6ºC and lows down to -15ºC while the peak of summer sees temperatures of around 28ºC, although they can reach 40°C. The area has on average 123 rainy days per year and 20 days of snow. Serra da Estrela, the highest mountain range in Portugal, has a ski resort; snow is frequent and heavy here throughout winter.
Portugal’s climate heats up and dries out heading south. Past Lisbon there is a typical Mediterranean climate consisting of mild winters, sunny warm springs, and scorching summers with temperatures frequently over 30°C. Further south it gets hotter and drier, with 300 days of sunshine in the Algarve.
Along the coastline the climate is predominantly influenced by the currents and winds of the Atlantic Ocean: summer highs are counteracted with a cooling sea breeze, while the ocean waters temper the winters.
For weather predictions, visit the Portuguese meteorological website (www.ipma.pt) or the independent www.meteoblue.com.
Part of the disused Fort of São Domingos da Baralha, built on the Chã dos Navagantes (Walk 28)