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Leave no trace
This ethos is well embedded in the consciousness of most walkers. Take all your litter away with you, and under no circumstances should you light a fire: not only are they illegal for most of the year, but they also put the landscape at serious risk. Full rules for walking in the nature parks can be found on the ICNF website (www.icnf.pt).
GPS
GPS may prove highly valuable on many of the walks in this guide. GPX tracks for all of the routes are available to download free at www.cicerone.co.uk/889/GPX. Consider using a free smartphone app such as ViewRanger (www.viewranger.com), with roaming turned off and maps downloaded before the walk to avoid any extra charges (using the GPS function abroad is free).
A GPS device is an excellent aid to navigation, but you should also carry a map and compass and know how to use them. GPX files are provided in good faith, but neither the author nor the publisher accepts responsibility for their accuracy.
GPS coordinates have been provided for the start/finish points of all walks. They are Google compatible, and can be used on GPS devices (including in-car GPS and android GPS apps). If different formats are required, use an online converter such as www.directionsmag.com/site/latlong-converter
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Rio Olo, which becomes Fisgas de Ermelo – the cascade symbol of Alvão Nature Park
PENEDA-GERES NATIONAL PARK
Walking along the beautiful calçada (pavement) towards Gavieira, with panoramic views of the mountain ranges of Serra da Peneda and Serra do Soajo (Walk 4)
PNPG is the only national park in Portugal. It extends between the two plateaux of Castro Laboreiro and Mourela, covering the mountain ranges of Peneda, Soajo, Amarelo and Gerês. The landscape ranges from breathtaking peaks and crags, via mountainous plateaued highland areas where livestock and wildlife graze, to lakes and waterfalls. Granite dominates the area with the presence of some metasedimentary rocks (shales) and deposits of glacial origin, such as moraines or erratic blocks.
Due to its diverse environment, the park provides habitats for a wide variety of wildlife including the roe deer (the emblem of the park), wolves and golden eagles. Serra do Gerês lilies are not found anywhere else in the world.
The list of highlights in the park is endless and includes the ethereal Sanctuary of Peneda (Walk 3), the megalithic monuments in Mezio (near Walk 5), the Via Nova Roman road (Walks 8 and 9), and a castle with superb panoramic views in Castelo Laboreiro (Walk 2).
The park’s scenery, cultural heritage, history and architecture can be explored on the walks in this chapter; alternatively you could focus on conquering the highest peaks of each mountain range – Louriça (1359m, Amarelo), Pedrada (1416m, Soajo; Walk 5), Carris (1508m, to look at the unattainable Pico da Nevosa in Gerês; Walk 7) and Peneda (1374m, Peneda).
There are five park gates with visitor centres providing advice: Lamas de Mouro, Mezio, Lindoso, Campo do Gerês and Montalegre.
View of the village Gavieira at the bottom of the valley of Rio Pomba with the majestic mountain ranges of Serra da Peneda and Serra do Soajo in the background (Walk 4)
Bases
Both Campo do Gerês and Villa do Gerês are at the park’s geographical centre and have multiple accommodation options – although as the park is so large, driving distances for the outer walks will be up to 1½hrs. Many of the walks have both dining options and rooms available at the start town/village: Castro Laboreiro for Walk 2, Peneda and Branda da Aveleria for Walk 3, and Pitões das Júnias – the highest village in Portugal – for Walk 6.
WALK 1
Caminho dos Mortos, Real
| Start/Finish | Capela do Senhor dos Passos, near Real (N42°00.658’ W08°22.938’) |
| Distance | 12.5km |
| Total ascent | 650m |
| Grade | Medium |
| Time | 5hrs |
| Terrain | Mostly along old ways, uneven in places, a little bit of tarmac |
| Map | Adventure Maps Peneda-Gerês; Carta Militar 1:50,000 sheets 1-1 and 1-2, 1:25,000 sheets 3 and 8 |
| Access | On the M503-1 between Merufe and Tangil |
| Parking | At start |
| Warning | Caution is required after heavy rain as the route crosses a number of streams, and in many places the water rushes along the calçada (stone-built pavement). |
Caminho dos Mortos – ‘Walk of the dead’ – is a superb route despite its macabre origins. It follows the old ways, along which the dead used to be transported in ox-drawn carts to church for burial: if you look closely the ruts from the cart wheels are still visible. There is also a Neolithic burial mound now almost subsumed into the landscape.
The route goes through beautiful countryside, a couple of small villages, and in many places follows watercourses. Short enough to be completed before the heat becomes too oppressive, and incorporating a reasonable amount of shade, this is a walk that could be done in summer.
From the chapel walk south on the tarmac road downhill. Take the very first right-hand fork, and then by a small chapel/shrine (Capela Sra dos Remédios) turn right to walk on a calçada, which is the actual ‘way of the dead’.
Walk upwards, over a solid stone bridge made of gigantic granite slabs, and past a beautiful old watermill, covered in moss. In spring, this whole valley is green with ferns and moss. Shortly after the mill, the path, which has been next to the river, turns to the right (where there is also a turning to the left with amazing stepping-stones).
Follow the path and 10mins later cross over the river on a bridge made from huge granite blocks. Then ford a stream and 15mins later walk underneath vines in the outskirts of the village of Arado.
The enforcado method of training vines at a height is commonly found in northern Portugal. It helps prevent fungal disease by raising the vines way above the fungal spores on the ground, which otherwise would get splashed onto the leaves by rainfall. The smallholders can also grow vegetables beneath them, an efficient use of space.
Reach a tarmac road and turn left, uphill, and then go straight over a crossroads to leave the village, heading up and south-west. Walk up the path, turn right at the large tarmac road, and then turn left in 50 metres. Go straight over a dirt road crossroads, then 350 metres after the tarmac road take a left-hand turn onto a cart track signposted for Bouças, with views of hand-built terracing down the Vale do Sucrasto.