leaving their guns. Two of the Army of Portugal’s seven divisions remained intact, but Foy’s was being hard pressed and only Ferey’s, on high ground southeast of the Grande across the French line of retreat, could prevent a rout.
HEAVY AND LIGHT HORSEMEN
The ‘heavies’ were shock-action, melee troops riding into battle, boot to boot for maximum impact, with their long, straight swords pointed directly at their enemy.
The ‘lights’ were mounted on smaller, lighter horses (below 14.2 hands). Theoretically they were not part of the battle line, but performed reconnaissance and security roles, only joining in pursuits to disperse and slice down runaways with their curved sabres.
In practice both heavy and light horsemen saw themselves as ‘battlefield cavalry’ for whom charge at the gallop was the principal tactic.
Wellington rides into Salamanca at the head of a regiment of Hussars.
Wellington ordered Clinton’s division to go straight at Ferey’s. Making excellent use of broken country, rising ground and open slopes, Ferey poured musket and canister into Clinton’s leading regiments and a devastating firefight ensued. Clinton’s first line was shattered. Units from Cole’s and Leith’s formations made up an ad hoc second line, and Hope’s division came up as support. Cohesion was breaking down as tiredness grew and the divisional generals improvised as best they could. Ferey’s men doggedly clung to their ground. Another bloody firefight caused Clinton’s second line to retire and, almost crippled, this brave French division prepared to meet the next wave. As the two exhausted forces began volleying each other the remnants of Pakenham’s arrived and drove into their flank. Ferey was killed and the line broke. Now only Foy’s could offer any resistance, and the light division ensured they were absorbed in trying to get off without being overwhelmed.
SQUARES, INFANTRY AND CAVALRY
Infantry formed tight squares as protection against cavalry, because the formation has no flank or rear and horses will shy away from the massed bayonets. However, squares are densely packed, easy targets for cannon. Massed infantry can march up close to the square, stop and fire, because three sides of the square are looking in different directions and cannot fire back. Napoleonic generals tried to use their cavalry to force enemy infantry into squares which they then battered with their cannon and then broke with their infantry bayonets, finally letting the cavalry chase and destroy the remnants.
The wreck of the Army of Portugal fled southeastward towards the deep, wide River Tormes which curved south, behind the French position. There were only two crossings: the fords of Huerta and the bridge at Alba de Tormes. Believing a Spanish garrison of 2000 held the bridge, Wellington ordered Hope’s division to advance upon Huerta. Apparently only Foy used the fords. General Don Carlos d’España had withdrawn his Spaniards from Alba without orders two days before, so the French escaped over the bridge. However, they were a defeated force. They had lost over 14,000 men, two divisional generals, 20 guns, two eagles and six standards, and Wellington had confirmed himself a master of the offensive battle.
VISITING THE BATTLEFIELD TODAY
The battlefield is not as wooded as it was in1812 and the rear of the Arapil Grande has been lost to quarrying! Most roads have been surfaced and a new road and a railway line cut across the southern valley with a disused station at the foot of the Chico. Wellington could recognize his battlefield.
Leave Salamanca on the N630. After 5km (3 miles) you will pass Las Torres on your left; further on is a crossroads where you turn left for Los Arapiles. The Arapil Chico lies ahead, the Arapil Grande is to its right. Go into the village, supposedly unaltered since the fight raged around it, and stop at the town hall where there is a plaque, a map of the battle, and several cannon and muskets balls found in the area. To your left is the high ground from where Wellington watched the gap in the French line developing. It is climbable – and take a telescope, if only to survey the opposite ridge and dramatically snap it shut!
Keep on the road to reach the ruined station where you can park. Both Arapiles are within walking distance. Negotiate the fence; a track leads up the Chico for a magnificent panorama of the undulating field. To the north is the rearguard’s ridge, running back to the Tormes, and to the northeast is the knoll of Nuestra Señora de la Peña. The heights directly eastwards are where Foy’s division fought its retreat with the Light Division, while due south is the Grande. Around the railway station Clinton’s division defeated Clausel’s counterattack, while beyond it Leith’s division attacked Maucune’s men.
If you’re fit, climb the Grande. It can be tough going, but it is easier round the back. The views are stunning and you will be able to appreciate the size and scale of the whole engagement. You will also see just how restricted was Marmont’s view of Wellington’s deployment. It is a long hike to follow the railway, but across the valley, where the ground climbs, you will see a ridge to your left. More wooded in 1812, it was on this eastern rise that Ferey’s division made their heroic stand before crumbling and streaming back to Alba de Tormes.
The old bridge at Salamanca, over which Wellington’s baggage filed during the morning’s move west and the victorious general rode in triumph later in the day. Although now largely disused and falling into disrepair, it can still be seen today.
VISITORS’ FACT FILE
Visiting Salamanca is rewarding whether you self-drive and explore, or go with a battlefield tour company.
• The current major operator is Holts Tours Ltd., HiTours House, Crossoak Lane, Salfords, Redhill, Surrey, RH1 4EX.
• Specializing in arranging small, personally-designed visits is Cooper’s: Waterloo Tours, Cooper’s Court, Morton, Ongar, Essex, CM5 0NE. 01 277 890 214, and
• Chris Scott, 174, Ermin Street, Stratton St. Margaret, Swindon, Wiltshire, SN3 4NE. Also available as a guide.
• There are others, so choose whichever suits your needs.
Hire car companies are plentiful in Spain if you wish to fly-drive. You can book from home, fly into Madrid or Bilbao and be on the road in 30 minutes with most international companies. UK-based travellers can car-ferry from Plymouth to Santander. From either Bilbao (E805-E05-E80) or Santander (623), the roads go via Burgos and Valladolid (620-A62/E80), and from Madrid through L’Escorial and Avila (505-501) – all places well worth visiting. The university town of Salamanca lies on a major route to Portugal and a visit can be linked to see the siege sites of Ciudad Rodrigo and Almeida, the battlefields of the Coa and Fuentes d’Onoro and the ruins of Fort Conception.
Salamanca boasts an array of hotels ranging from the inexpensive, even on the Plaza Mayor, to the Salamanca Parador, which is modern and recently refurbished. Out of the city, Santa Martha has a camping site behind the Hotel Regio. The Spanish Tourist Board www.tourspain.co.uk will help with almost everything. The regional tourist information office is in Valladolid www.jcyl.es/turismo; and contacted on [email protected]. Road maps are available from garages and hotels and European atlases are stocked by AA shops or Halfords. Detailed maps of the area can be ordered from Stanford’s in Covent Garden, London.
SALAMANCA TIMELINE
(Approximate as very few time references exist)