and Podgorica, and towards the River Zeta. Southeast of Sinjajevina, across the River Tara, is Bjelasica (Routes 9–10), with its somewhat more gentle, rounded tops.
Limestone pavement (lapiez) on Subra, with waymarking (Route 1)
Further to the southeast lie the high, wild and sometimes quite remote mountain areas along the Albanian border, at the headwaters of the River Tara and the River Lim. Komovi (Route 11), which lies just south of Bjelasica, is a relatively compact area, reaching its highest in Kom Kučki (2487m). South of Komovi and slightly lower in altitude is the rugged and very little visited Kučka krajina (Route 12, also called Žijevo). To the east of these, across the northern tip of Albania, lies Prokletije (Routes 14–17), a heavily glaciated area with a steep, Alpine profile, including Maja Kolata (2528m), the highest mountain in Montenegro. (Altitude increases over the Albanian border, where Maja Jezerces reaches 2694m.) Visitor (Route 13) rises above Lake Plav, on the northern edge of Prokletije.
For a list of the principal mountain areas and major peaks in Montenegro, see Appendix A.
Geology
The mountains of Montenegro were formed during the violent geological activity of the late Secondary and early Tertiary eras, and are primarily composed of Jurassic and Triassic limestone. The zone northeast of Pivsko jezero, the upper Morača and the headwaters of the Tara was formed by a large overthrust (or ‘nappe’), and it is this area which contains many of the country’s highest mountains.
Although no glaciers remain today, some areas bear profound traces of glaciation, with numerous glacial cirques, moraines and glacial lakes (18 of the latter in the Durmitor region alone). Furthermore, glaciation in the Prokletije region occurred at a much lower altitude than in the Alps – as low as 1000m. Plavsko jezero (Lake Plav) is the largest glacial lake in the Balkans; and a glacier in the Plav-Gusinje area is estimated to have been some 35km long and up to 200m thick, which would have made it the largest glacier in the region.
The River Tara, between Žabljak and Mojkovac
Some remarkably deep canyons cut across the Montenegrin highlands, most notably the Tara Canyon which reaches a maximum depth of some 1600m – making it not only the deepest canyon in Europe, but also the second deepest in the world after the Grand Canyon in Colorado. Not far behind in depth are the Piva and Morača gorges, at 1200m and 1100m respectively.
Numerous karst features are associated with the Montenegrin landscape. Karst is formed through the gradual dissolution of limestone by rainwater, and a corresponding enlargement of surface drainage holes as water percolates downwards. The resultant landscape is characterized by a distinctive surface texture of vertical fissures (karren), sinkholes, cone-shaped dells and depressions, together with numerous caves and sinkholes, many of which reach considerable lengths or depths. Surface water rapidly disappears underground to flow as subterranean rivers, which often re-emerge as karst springs, either in the foothills of the mountains or as submarine springs. The largest submarine spring on the Adriatic coast, called Sopot, emerges in the Bay of Kotor. Other distinctive features of the karst landscape include polja – large, shallow depressions between ridges, which vary considerably in size, and in karst areas may be the only suitable areas for cultivation.
Climate
I saw and heard how they rent the skies; Squalls of hostile hail poured down, Plundered the earth of her fertility.
Petar II Petrović Njegoš, Gorski Vijenac (‘The Mountain Wreath’, Vienna 1847)
The mountains of inland Montenegro (Durmitor, Prokletije, etc) see moderate summers and long, harsh winters. Daytime temperatures during the summer are high but not unpleasantly so (maximum about 25°C in August), and the nights refreshingly cool (minimum about 10°C in August, although it can sometimes drop considerably lower). During the winter months mountainous areas see freezing temperatures and receive abundant snowfall – as much as 5m on Durmitor. Snow lingers well into the summer months, particularly on northern slopes.
The Montenegrin coast enjoys long, hot summers and short, mild winters. In the Zeta plain, including the basin of Skadarsko jezero, the summer months can be particularly hot, and Podgorica has the unhappy distinction of being the hottest city in Serbia or Montenegro.
Do not be deceived by the barren, desiccated appearance of Montenegro’s coastal mountains – this region of the Dinaric Alps attracts phenomenally heavy rainfall. In fact, Crkvice on Orjen has the highest rainfall in Europe, with an annual average of 4500–5000mm, and over 5300mm has been recorded in a single year. (To put this in perspective, Scotland’s Western Highlands and the western coast of Norway each receive on average only 3000mm per year!) Fortunately, the average annual precipitation in other inland mountain areas is more reasonable (1750mm on Durmitor, for example).
On the coast and in the coastal mountains, rain falls almost entirely during the winter (usually from November). In the mountainous areas further inland, precipitation is somewhat more evenly distributed throughout the year.
When to visit
On balance then, the best time to visit the mountains of Montenegro is June to September. Durmitor, Komovi, Prokletije and the other high, inland mountain areas will all be at their best at this time. Snow patches will linger well into the summer in some areas, particularly on northern slopes, and in some areas you will find snow all year. Wild flowers will be at their most plentiful in June to July. By late summer some of the smaller lakes and tarns will have dried up. Winter brings spectacular snow conditions for those prepared. August is very hot on the coast, and this is not the best time to visit Orjen or Lovćen.
Bobotov kuk from Trojni prevoj (Route 7)
However, like any mountains truly worthy of the long hours you might spend climbing them, those in Montenegro are full of suprises and often enjoy confounding even the most detailed weather forecast. Make sure you bring adequate warm clothing and a waterproof jacket, whatever time of year you choose to visit.
Cloud in the Grbaja Valley
Vegetation and wildlife
The plant-life of the Balkans is richer than any comparable area in Europe.
Oleg Polunin, Flowers of Greece and the Balkans (Oxford, 1980)
Mediterranean and mountain plants
The number of plant species in the Balkan peninsula has been estimated at well over 6500 – a figure that includes numerous endemics and several relicts that have survived from before the last Ice Age.
Along the Montenegrin coast, some typical species include Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis), holm oak (Quercus ilex), funeral cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), wild olive (Olea europaea) and other low shrubs or maquis. On the steep mountain slopes and karst areas above, these rapidly give way to species such as white oak (Quercus pubescens), holly oak (Quercus coccifera), hop-hornbeam (ostrya carpinifolia) and hardy scrub or garrigue. Flowering plants in these areas include thyme (Thymus striatus), common sage (Salvia officinalis) and several species of crocus. Among the endemic species found in such areas are Moltkia petraea, Petteria ramentacea, Globularia cordifolia, Lonicera glutinosa and Tanacetum cinerariifolium or ‘Dalmatian powder’ – better known as pyrethrum.
Inland, the lower reaches of valleys and canyons are characterized by deciduous forest including ash (Fraxinus excelsior) and various species of oak. At higher levels these increasingly give way to beech (Fagus silvatica) and then conifers. Canyons may also contain a number of Tertiary relicts.
The mountain slopes of inland Montenegro are dominated by coniferous, beech or mixed forest. Species include Norwegian spruce (Picea abies), silver fir (Abies alba), Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis),