from Western Europe
Travelling to Montenegro by rail is not particularly cheap or fast, but will certainly involve a smaller carbon footprint than a flight. See the Rail Europe (www.raileurope.co.uk) and especially the Deutsche Bahn (www.bahn.com) websites for possible routes and fares. Better value is an InterRail (www.raileurope.co.uk) or a Eurail (www.eurail.com, which must be bought outside Europe) pass, which allows travellers to stop off and explore several other countries on their way to Croatia. InterRail tickets, once the privilege of those under the age of 26, are now available to all age groups.
The only rail route into Montenegro is from Belgrade – there is no rail crossing between Croatia and Montenegro. Note that rail tickets are far cheaper purchased locally: Belgrade–Bar costs approximately 25 one way (first class, including seat reservation).
Eurolines (www.eurolines.com) runs international bus services from the UK to Montenegro. Season tickets are available for 15-day or 30-day periods.
Sv. Djordje and Gospa od Škrplja, on the Bay of Kotor, near Perast
Local transport
Bus
Local buses and minibuses will take you to most, but not all, of the starting/finishing points for the routes in this guide, and are generally the cheapest and most convenient way to travel – see the transport information at the beginning of each of routes in this guide. They are very frequent on major routes, and pick up passengers at many points along the way. You can buy a ticket at a bus station or on the bus itself. Sample one-way fares are: Podgorica to Virpazar 2.50; Budva to Kotor 3; Podgorica to Plav 11. Return fares are cheaper than two singles, but you’ll need to return on a service run by the same bus company.
For a timetable of departures from Podgorica to various destinations in Montenegro, see www.autobusni-kolodvor.com (and click on ‘english’).
Train
The only train line in Montenegro which you are likely to use is that running from Bar to Podgorica, Kolašin, Mojkovac and Bijelo Polje (and on to Belgrade). Slightly slower than the bus, it is nevertheless a spectacular feat of engineering, plunging through the mountains in an endless succession of tunnels and bridges (including one of the highest viaducts in Europe) on its route to the border. The poor condition of some of Montenegro’s rolling stock was highlighted by a major rail crash in early 2006, just north of Podgorica.
For timetables and further information, see www.zcg-prevoz.me and Appendix C.
Taxi
Organizing a taxi from the end of a bus route to the start of a walk will be necessary for some of the routes in this guide (for example from the village of Kolašin to the beginning of the walk on Komovi, Route 11). This is straightforward enough, and if there are no taxis visible you can ask someone in a National Park office, shop or kiosk, who is almost certain to know someone with a car who is prepared to take you, for a reasonable price. You may need to know a few words or phrases in Serbian to explain where you want to go. Where relevant, details of where to ask and how much you should expect to pay are given in the transport information at the beginning of each route. Prices are quite reasonable: Andrijevica to Veruša via Treškovac (approximately 60km) shouldn’t be more than €40, Podgorica city centre to airport €10.
Hitching
Hitching is perfectly acceptable in the mountains (you may have less luck on the coast), and may provide a convenient way of getting between some of the more remote walks in this guide and the nearest bus stop. However, remember that hitching can never be recommended as entirely safe, particularly for women travelling alone.
WARNING – CROSS-BORDER TRAVEL
Although travel within Montenegro is perfectly safe, visitors are strongly advised against straying over the border into neighbouring countries (with the exception of those itineraries detailed within this guide, and established cross-border routes such as the Peaks of the Balkans trail in Prokletije and the Via Dinarica route from Bioč into Sutjeska National Park in Bosnia) – however attractive various trans-Balkan mountain walks may appear on the map. In particular, the presence of landmines in Bosnia-Hercegovina and certain areas of Croatia should discourage walkers and mountaineers from crossing between these countries and Montenegro except at established border crossings. There are also rumours of landmines over the Albanian border, and the border areas between Kosovo and Montenegro may also carry the risk of unexploded ordnance, while Kosovo remains one of the least stable areas in Europe, and the eastern part of Lake Skadar is a popular smuggling route.
Accommodation
Accommodation options in Montenegro range from large hotels to small family-run pensions, and hostels, as well as private rooms (sobe) and apartments (apartmani). You will often be approached at bus stations and other public places by people offering private rooms or apartments. In these cases try to get a clear idea of exactly what’s on offer before going to look at a room: how far it is from the centre of town, the price (and whether this is per person, or for the room), whether you are expected to share the room if travelling alone. Rates vary between high and low season, and may be more if you stay fewer than three nights. Rates in pensions and hotels generally include breakfast; those for private rooms and apartments do not.
A brief selection of recommended pensions, hotels and private rooms in towns relevant to this guide is given in Appendix C. Details of mountain huts and camping are given in the ‘Walking in Montenegro’ section, below.
Money
Currency
Montenegro may not be in the EU, but its official currency has nevertheless been the Euro since 2002. Croatian kunas or Serbian dinars are best changed before you get here.
Costs
Costs in Montenegro are higher than they should be in a country trying to attract more foreign visitors though lower than in neighbouring Croatia and still reasonable for most Western visitors. Staying in hotels will prove the biggest drain on your budget. Restaurants and public transport are relatively cheap. Below are some sample prices: cup of coffee (espresso) 70c, simple meal (such as a portion of ćevapćići and šopska salata) €5.50, main meal in restaurant (such as grilled fish, side dish, salad) €10+, bottle of local wine in supermarket €2–10, glass of local beer €1.50c, loaf of bread 50c, short bus journey (Podgorica to Virpazar) €2.50, national park entry €2.
Krošnja, a high, glaciated cirque in Prokletije (Route 15)
Carrying money
Montenegro is a fairly safe country in which to travel by most standards. However, be aware that the local economy is in tatters, unemployment is high and an average local salary only about €500 per month after tax. Avoid tempting fate (or more particularly, theft) by carrying money in a money-belt and not waving expensive-looking cameras and great wads of cash around.
ATMs, credit cards and changing money
ATMs (bankomat) can now be found increasingly widely in Podgorica and other large towns, but are less common in smaller towns away from the coast and are most likely absent from villages in the mountains. Pounds sterling (funte) and other currencies can also be exchanged at exchange offices and at most banks. Credit cards are accepted in the majority of hotels (not usually for private rooms), as well as in larger shops and supermarkets.
Staying in touch
Telephones
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