state, under the Nemanja dynasty, attained true artistic and political greatness. This was extinguished by the advance of the Ottoman Turks during the 14th century, who defeated the Serbian, Croatian and Bosnian armies on the plains of Kosovo in 1389.
During the Ottoman conquest of the Balkans Montenegro began to develop its own religious and cultural identity, distinct from that of Serbia, under the Crnojević dynasty, who established a small semi-independent principality in the area inland from the coastal ranges, with its capital at Cetinje. From 1516 its rulers, known as Vladikas, were elected from the monastery at Cetinje. From the end of the 17th century power was passed from uncle to nephew, remaining in the hands of the Petrović dynasty. Montenegrin resistance to Ottoman rule was determined, and Ottoman recognition of Montenegro came in 1789, under the ruler Petar I Petrović Njegoš. Petar II Petrović Njegoš, who came to power in 1830, played an important role in organizing central government; he was also a great poet, whose masterpiece, Gorski Vijenac (‘The Mountain Wreath’), was printed in 1847 Under Prince Nikola Petrović Montenegro increased its territory, these gains being recognized by the Treaty of San Stefano in 1878. Montenegro’s first constitution was introduced in 1905.
At the end of the First World War Montenegro became the only Allied country to lose its independence, becoming instead a part of Serbia – and of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes which was proclaimed in 1918. In 1945, following the end of the Second World War, Montenegro (along with Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia, Slovenia and Macedonia) became part of the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, under Tito. With the collapse of Yugoslavia and the war between Serbia and Croatia in the 1990s, Montenegro sided with Serbia. Following this conflict, and the war in Bosnia, Serbia and Montenegro maintained the name Yugoslavia, but from 2002 this confederation was renamed the State Union of Serbia and Montenegro. In May 2006 Montenegro held a referendum and voted for independence from Serbia. The EU began accession talks with Montenegro in 2012, however such a step as EU membership is likely to be several years away.
Culture
What shows so white on the green mountainside? Is it snow, is it swans on the mountain?
From the ballad The Wife of Asan-aga’ (translated by A Pennington and P Levi)
Montenegro is certainly not short on literary tradition, and one of the earliest printing presses in the Balkans was established at Obod, near Cetinje, in the 1490s, under Ivan Crnojević’s son Ðurađ.
The ballads and epic poems of the Kosovo Cycle constitute one of the great treasures of European folk literature. These first came to the attention of Western Europe when a selection were published in the Italian edition of the Venetian traveller Alberto Fortis’ Travels into Dalmatia (1774), and adaptations were later made by Goethe, Walter Scott, Mérimée and Pushkin. The definitive editions are those by Vuk Karadžić, culminating in his magnum opus, Serbian Folk Poems (4 vols., Vienna, 1841–62). One of the best English translations of the Kosovo Cycle is that by Anne Pennington and Peter Levi, Marko the Prince (London: Duckworth, 1984).
The magnum opus of Petar II Petrović Njegoš, Gorski Vijenac (‘The Mountain Wreath’), written in 1846 and published in Vienna in 1847, remains the Montenegrin national epic.
Some of the more notable buildings and monuments in Montenegro include:
Morača Monastery (Church of Sv. Bogorodica)
About 5km south of the turn-off to Šavnik, on the main road (E-80) between Kolašin and Podgorica. Founded 1251 by Stephen (‘The First Crowned’). The earliest frescoes date from around 1260, and are a fine example of the so-called ‘Raška’ school of the 13th century; they include the Annunciation and scenes from the life of St Elijah (Sv. Ilija). Other frescoes are mostly from the 16th–17th centuries. Among the many fine icons is one of Saints Symeon and Sava, with scenes from the life of Sv. Sava.
Ostrog Monastery
On a small side-road about 37 km north of Podgorica, off the main road (E-762) to Nikšić. Built during the 17th century, nestled in a spectacular position at the base of a cliff. A taxi from the turn-off to the monastery, plus waiting time and drive on to Nikšić, should cost €20–25. Alternatively, day trips operate from many towns on the coast.
Piva Monastery (Church of Sv. Bogorodica)
On the slopes above the village of Goransko, about 55km north of Nikšić on the main road (E-762) to Srbinje. Founded 1573 by Savatije, Metropolitan of Hercegovina. Impressive gilt iconostasis dating from 1638–39 and rich treasury. Originally stood much lower down slopes, but was moved to present location with building of dam and flooding of gorge.
Monastery, Cetinje
Founded by Ivan Crnojević in 1484 as the residence of the Metropolitan of Zeta, and from 1516 the seat of the Vladika, the Orthodox ruler-bishops of inland Montenegro. The original monastery was destroyed in an explosion in 1692. The present structure dates from the 18th century, and was heavily restored after the First World War.
Gospa od Škrpjela
Near Perast, on Boka Kotorska. Built 1452 on an artificial island. Used as model by Swiss painter Böcklin for his well-known painting The Isle of the Dead (1880, now in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York).
Hussein Pasha Mosque, Pljevlja
Founded 1569 by Hussein Pasha Boljanić, this is a good example of a provincial Ottoman mosque.
Mausoleum of Petar II Petrović Njegoš, on Lovćen
Described by J.A. Cuddon (The Companion Guide toJugoslavia) as ‘probably the loneliest and windiest grave in the world’. Contains a statue of Montenegro’s celebrated ruler-poet in black marble by the Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrović.
Caryatid at the mausoleum of Petar II Petrović Njegoš, on Jezerski vrh (Route 3)
Stari grad, Kotor
Kotor’s old town is a beautiful example of a walled medieval city (and along with a large part of Boka Kotorska a UNESCO World Heritage Site), and should not be missed.
Stari Bar
Beautifully preserved walled medieval town on the lower slopes of Rumija.
Stećci
There are good examples of stećci (a distinctive type of medieval tombstone) at Pljevlja and in the Durmitor region, for example near Vražje jezero, and at Bare Žugića and Šćepan polje.
A SELECTION OF MONTENEGRIN FESTIVALS
| February/early March | Shrovetide Carnival, Kotor |
| 30 May | Vladimir’s Cross – a procession with this relic from Bar to the summit of Rumija |
| 22 July | ‘Fašinda’, Gospa od Škrpjela, offshore fromPerast; commemorates construction of artificialisland upon which this church is built |
| July/August | Summer Theatre Festival, Budva |
| August | Montenegrin Film Festival, Herceg Novi |
| August | Folk Music Festival, Cetinje |
In Montenegro ‘National Day’ is celebrated on the 13th of July. Remember that in the Orthodox Church, Christmas falls on the 7th of January.
Food and drink
Grilled meats feature prominently on the Montenegrin or Serbian menu, most grandly in the combination commonly known as the roštilj (‘grill’), and eating out in Montenegro will be a trying experience for vegetarians. Vegetarians or those fed up with mixed grills should ask: ‘Da li imate nešto bez mesa?’ (‘Do you have something without meat?’). For non-vegetarians, ćevapčići and šopska salata make a delicious and cheap meal which is served throughout